CAMP FIRES 



IN THE 



WILDERNESS 



Valuable ITntormation 

FOR CAMPERS AND 
SPORTSMEN, WITH 
AN ACCOUNT OF 
TRAVELS AND AD- 
VENTURES IN THE 
WILDS OF MAINE, 
NEW BRUNSWICK 
AND CANADA 

BY 

E. "W. BURT 



NATIONAL SPORTSMAN PRESS 

BOSTON, MASS. 



033 



rrarrm 



"Copyright 1902 

BY 

E. W. BURT." 



Published Nov. 1902. 



The National Sportsman Press. 



THE CONTENTS. 



Chapter. 

I. What to Take. 

II. Bedding. 

III. Camp Equipage, Tents etc. 

fV. Medicine. 

V. Fishing Tackle. 

VI. Cooking Utenlsils. 

VII. Food. 

VIII. Advice About Camp Locations. 

IX. Camp Receipts. 

X. Other List of Supplies. 

XI. Headwaters of the Androscoggin River. 

XII. Three Weeks in a Maine Log Cabin. 

XIII. How We Saw the Megantic Preserve. 

XIV. A 300-Mile Canoe Trip Through Maine and 

New Brunswick. 

XV. Explorations on the Great Lakes. 

XVI. It Is Worth While. 

XVII. Some of the Wild Animals of Maine. 

XVIII. How to Build a Log Cabin. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Dragging Down Mud Pond Stream Frontispiece 

Following 
Page. 

Camp Wild Wood 8 

Washing Dishes 16 

Our Dining Table 16 

Camp Ash Tree, Kennebago River 24 

Camp Wild Bank, Kennebago River 24 

Fishing in Kennebago River 32 

Crawford Notch 40 

Arnold Pond Camps 48-56 

Big North West Pond Camp 66 

Beaver House, Ed Grant's Camp 66 

Scenery Megantic Preserve 74 

Views on the Megantic Preserve 82 

Lunch on the Umbazookskus Stream 88 

Camp on the Penobscot River 96 

Allagash River 104 

Churchill Lake Camp 112 

Falls on the Allagash River 118 

A Milk White Deer 126 

St. Johns River 126 

Camp at Point aux Baril 132 

Paddling on Lake Huron 138 

Fishing on the Georgian Bay 138 

A Trout from Lake Huron 144 

Islands of the Georgian Bay 150 

At Our Mining Camp 156 

Camp at Serpent Island 160 



DEDICATORY. 



EYEEY man, however great or small, has one su- 
preme ambition in his life, and towards that 
golden gateway to the goal of his ambition are his 
earnest thoughts and energies directed. One man 
may seek for wealth, while others strive for glory, 
but there are some who, best of all, live not for 
"self," but for the good of others. To one who 
never did an unkind act, who loves the woods and 
all the joys that Nature gives, I dedicate this book. 

E. W. BURT. 



PREFACE. 



EVERY year, when the summer time draws near, 
one^s thoughts turn to the woods, to the lakes 
and streams, as the ideal place in which to take a 
summer's vacation, and to those who wish for infor- 
mation on how to dress for hunting, fishing or camp- 
ing trips, what to provide for cooking utensils, pro- 
visions, bedding, fishing tackle or any other topic in 
connection with camping out, this book is dedicated, 
with the hope that someone who may read its pages 
will be persuaded to make a camping trip and find 
out, as I have done, that there is no recreation more 
profitable to one's life, health and happiness than 
living in the woods and roughing it. 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS 



CAMP FIRES IN THE 
WILDERNESS. 



WHAT TO TAKE 

FOR CAMPING. 



CHAPTER L 

EVERYONE who has camped out has a different 
list of supplies that he takes into the woods 
with him, depending entirely upon the nature of the 
trip, whether by canoe, horseback or on foot, and the 
season of the year, but a general list can be made out 
and then cut down to the actual amount that one 
would need on a short camping trip to Maine or New 
Brunswick during the summer or early fall months. 
It is the general mistake of everyone, even old camp- 
ers, to take too much luggage into the woods. On 
some trips I have taken various things with me that 
were never used, but I believe in being comfortable, 
and it is better to throw something away than to 

I 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

come into the woods and find you have forgotten to 
bring your knife or a drinking cup. 

Clothingf. 



The amount of clothing one will need on a camp- 
ing trip is not large, and the less you can get along 
with the better. From the last of June to the first 
of September the nights in Maine are not very cold, 
but they are often rainy and damp. Then it is neces- 
sary to dress warm and keep yourself dry. The days 
in summer are usually warm, in fact they are often 
very hot. During the summer of 1901 the writer 
has seen the temperature as high as 98 degrees in 
July at Moosehead Lake ; then you will be glad you 
have thin clothing with you, for it would be almost 
impossible to paddle or tramp in the woods with 
thick clothing. The following list will be found 
sufficient for all purposes on a two or three weeks' 
trip: Two suits of medium weight underwear, one 
suit of heavy underwear, two flannel shirts, five pairs 
of socks. A pair of knickerbockers, with heavy golf 
stockings, will be found the best for tramping. In 
rainy weather, a khaki suit, trousers, jacket and vest, 
is the best, for this will shed water and the under- 

2 



WHAT TO TAKE, 

brush will not tear it. Such a suit can be obtained 
at a very reasonable price from dealers who sell sup- 
plies to the army and navy. Above all, don^t forget 
two sweaters, one heavy weight and the other light 
weight. They are absolutely indispensable in the 
coldest weather, and at night one can keep warm in a 
sweater. A light weight rowing jersey, with shoi-t 
sleeves, will be found very useful if you are taking a 
canoeing trip. Many sportsmen discard vests, but I 
always take a canvas vest with me into the woods, 
having a large number of pockets for matches, watch, 
money, compass or any other small articles. Rubber 
coats can be taken, but they are not so good as a 
waterproof khaki suit. Overcoats are not necessary. 
One should always wear a belt in the woods; it is 
most convenient in every way, a hunting knife can 
he easily attached, and also a supply of cartridges 
can be carried in a convenient position on the side. 
If you wear suspenders, they will be continually 
catching in branches of trees when tramping. 

The best headgear to wear in any season of the 
year is a soft felt hat with a medium width brim. 
This will stand all kinds of weather and can be rolled 
up and put into a bag. A pair of leggings with 
buckles should be taken, as they will prevent bushes 

3 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

and underbrush from tearing the stockings; they 
will also shed water. 

Footwear. 

There is a great diversity of opinion as to what 
shoes to wear in the woods. I believe one should 
carry three styles of shoes on a camping trip. For 
walking in the woods a pair of heavy oil grain (this 
leather is waterproof), black or russet, 10-inch boots 
are the best. The tongue should be bellows, and 
laced to the top with eyelets, no hooks ; the sole must 
be very heavy, with waterproof, rawhide slip sole; 
the heel broad and low. For dry weather, any sea- 
son of the year, in tbe woods, on the plains or around 
camp, the most comfortable and serviceable of all 
footwear is the buckskin moccasin. It is the most 
common sense shoe made for man, and for conoeing 
it cannot ]>e excelled. In walking through the forest 
you can tread more quietly than with any boot or 
shoe. If the rocks hurt the bottom of your feet, put 
a pair of sole-leather insoles inside. For wading 
streams some people like rubber boots, but I think 
them much too heavy and warm, and I always wear 
a pair of white canvas, rubber-sole sneakers (high 
cut), with a pair of stockings, wearing, of course, a 

4 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

pair of golf trousers. One might be afraid of catch- 
ing cold from wading in the water, but I have waded 
streams in Maine and Canada all day during sum- 
mer months and have never once caught cold so long 
as I put on dry stockings when camp is reached. 
Low cut shoes are absolutely useless for camping 
out. Snowshoes are necessary for winter hunting. 
Those made by weaving rawhide thongs on a wooden 
bow are best. Having made out the foregoing list, it 
will be necessary to have something in which to carry 
part of it, and the simplest and most serviceable arti- 
cle is an ordinary seamless grain bag, made of heavy 
duck. This can be lined inside with waterproof, yel- 
low oil-cloth, such as sailors' oil suits are made of. 
In til is bag you can stow away everything, and there 
is always room for more. It is easy to carry, and can 
be knocked around without danger of injuring it. A 
small toilet case can be easily made of white duck; 
two strips, 24 inches long and about 8 inches wide, 
stitched together and divided off into sections, by 
stitching on an ordinary machine. This can hold 
soap, comb, brush, tooth-brush, needles, thread and 
any other small articles that would get lost anywhere 
else. 



CHAPTER IL 
Bedding:. 

TOO much care cannot be given to the subject of 
bedding. Next to a good suit of clothing it 
is the important part of a camp outfit. After a hard 
day's tramp or rowing, whatever it may be, there is 
nothing so absolutely necessary to prepare one for 
the next day's work as a good, warm, dry bed. Any 
man can endure a few nights of cold, comfortless 
sleep, but it will surely tell on him later, while, if he 
sleeps soundly, he may endure any amount of labor 
and hardship. You can tramp all day with your feet 
wet, all your clothing wet, without injury to yourself, 
but be sure you turn in on a good, soft, dry bed at 
night. Blankets are the staple article of camp bed- 
ding, and you should never go into camp with less 
than two pairs of heavy, double blankets. The best 
camp bed is a sleeping-bag, which is usually made of 
heavy, brown, waterproof canvas, six feet long, three 
wide. In the centre, above the head of the bag, flaps 

6 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

project a foot, with which the head may be covered 
if desired. The bag is lined inside with wool, and 
one or more pairs of blankets may be folded and in- 
serted inside. Besides being waterproof, the bag is 
windproof, and one can crawl in and sleep as soundly 
as at home, with no fear of kicking off the bed clothes. 
If the bag is not used, blankets will be found suffi- 
cient protection during the summer season. A pair 
of heavy pajamas should be worn, with a pair of 
stockings to protect the feet. Never sleep in your 
clothes. A small, soft pillow may be taken along, as 
it takes up little room and is often the means of a 
good night^s rest. The best bed can always be made 
from hemlock, fir or cedar boughs; lay them about 
two feet deep, after removing all large limbs. Such 
a bed gives with every movement of the body, and 
dampness cannot penetrate through. A rubber 
blanket spread on the ground will be an extra pro- 
tection if you are camping near a river. Don't sleep 
with the head covered, no matter what kind of a bed 
you have. 



CHAPTER m. 
Camp Equipagfc, Tents, Etc. 

THE first thing to be considered in camping out 
is a tent. The size and style depends upon 
the number who will use it, and the kind of transpor- 
tation you will have. For a party of four, a wall tent, 
8x10 or 8x12, will be about the right size, and poles 
can be cut at the various camping places, and dis- 
carded after taking the tent down. Guides usually 
furnish tents, but if one prefers to buy one, they can 
be purchased from $15 up. When packed in a bag 
these small tents take up very little room and don't 
weigh over 30 pounds. 

A photograph camera is quite essential to the 
pleasure of an outing. It is a luxury more than a 
necessity, yet I would rather leave other articles be- 
hind than not take a camera. A tripod comera, with 
glass plates 5x7, is about right, but I find that plates 
weigh so much, and break so easily, that you will be 
able to save only about half of your exposures. Then 

8 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

the extra number of plate-holders, with the bother of 
changing plates, makes the film camera more desira- 
ble. Don't try to develop plates in camp, you will 
be sure to spoil them ; wait until you get home. One 
hundred exposures is an ample number for a three 
weeks' trip. A very useful item is a pack strap, or 
knapsack. This will be found very handy for carry- 
ing blankets or provisions when making excursions 
from camp. 

Everyone should carry a rubber drinking cup ; they 
can be bought at rubber stores. Such a cup will fold 
up and can be carried in the pocket. A good com- 
pass should not be forgotten, and never leave camp 
without it. An inexpensive watch can be carried in 
the hunting vest. An Ingersoll $1.00 watch is good 
enough for camping, and will be found very reliable. 
If you can secure a map of the country you are to 
visit, do so, as it will be a great help in locating 
ponds and streams, and you can plan out each day's 
trip ahead. Two or more heavy towels should be 
taken, for a rub-down after a swim. For games, a 
pack of cards and a cribbage board will pass away 
many hours when staying in camp during rainy 
weather. A large, straight, bone-handle knife is 
quite essential in camp, and can be used for cleaning 

9 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

fish, skinning animals, cutting bushes, etc. This 
should be carried in a leather case attached to your 
belt. 



10 



CHAPTER IV* 

Medicine* 

IT is not necessary to carry much medicine into 
the woods, for one is very seldom ill when 
camping out;, but in cases of emergency you might 
need a few things. The writer was struck by an 
axe on one camping trip, and if it hadnH been for 
some thread, a needle and surgeon plaster brought 
along it might have ended seriously. I always take 
into the woods with me : 

1 Eoll surgeon plaster. 
1 Eoll bandages. 

Surgeon's needle and thread. 
1 Box laxative pills. 
1 Box quinine pills. 
1 Pint brandy. 
1 Roll cotton batting. 
1 Oz. cocaine, 4 per cent. 
1 Bottle liniment. 
These will be found sufficient for ordinary pur- 
poses. 

11 



CHAPTER V. 

Fishing: Tackle. 

THE subject of what fishing tackle to take is 
not an easy one to decide, but I have found 
that it is not necessary to have an elaborate and ex- 
pensive outfit if you are going where there are any 
fish, for I have caught trout as large as th^ee pounds 
with an ordinary hand line over the side of a boat, 
but there is a great deal more pleasure in landing a 
large trout on a slender fly rod with a fly hook, so I 
should advise you by all means to secure a good, 
strong, split bamboo or lance wood fly rod about 10 
feet long, have a good, reliable reel with about 50 
yards of waterproof silk line. Take three or four 
gut leaders about two yards in length, with plenty of 
shot sinkers. For trout the following flies are al- 
ways good in spring and summer: Brown Hackle, 
Grey Hackle, Montreal, Parmacheene Belle, Scarlet 
Ibis, Silver Doctor and White Miller. There are a 
great many more that one can use, but the above 
12 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

will usually catch the fish where others fail. A 
small hook is always preferable, size 2 or 3 being 
the best. Some ordinary gut hooks should be taken 
for deep fishing or trolling. The favorite salmon 
flies are Fairy, Silver Grey, Silver Doctor, Dusty 
Miller, etc. All fly hooks should be kept in a book 
made for that purpose. Trolling spoons can be 
used, especially for bass, but in some localities the 
law prevents their use. 



13 



CHAPTER VL 
Cooking: Utensils* 

IF you are going to hire a guide he will supply all 
the kitchen utensils, but when you expect to 
do your own cooking the following list of dishes will 
be found sufficient to prepare all the meals for three 
men on a month's trip : 

Two fry pans. These can be fitted with two rings 
under the handle, in which a stick can be inserted 
to reach over a hot fire. 

Two granite iron saucepans. Never take a tin 
saucepan, as the fire will melt the solder. 

Two granite iron coffee pots, one for making 
coffee, the other for tea. 

Three large tin spoons, 6 teaspoons, 4 knives and 
forks, 1 wire broiler, 6 tin cups, 6 tin plates, 1 buck- 
wheat spade, salt and pepper holder, 1 small lantern 
to use around camp, 6 candles, 1 kerosene oil can, 
1 cook oven called "Dutch oven.'' This is the only 
thing you can make bread with by an open fire. 
14 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

They are made of zinc, V shaped, about 18 inches 
long, with a shelf containing a shallow pan. These 
ovens are faced towards the fire and the heat from 
hot ashes will soon make very good bread. (See 
photo on front cover.) 

Two tin pails are very useful around camp for 
carrying drinking water. It is much better to broil 
meat and fish instead of frying, as greasy cooking 
is unhealthy and soon becomes distasteful, while a 
nicely broiled steak with a little butter is always 
acceptable. 



15 



CHAPTER VIL 
Food* 

THE provision supply is the hardest problem 
of all to solve, but after many camping trips 
I have been able to make a list of supplies that 
would be consumed by two men and one guide on a 
two weeks' trip, and one can add to the list as he 
chooses. Of course the amount to be taken depends 
upon the means of transportation, and whether the 
supply can be replenished en route, or by hunting 
and fishing. 

As a rule only plain, substantial food should be 
taken. That is the kind you will need. 

Delicacies should be left at home. Pie and cake 
are no good to climb hills on. Bread, meat, vege- 
tables and fruit are what you should select and al- 
ways buy the best quality, as the best is none too 
good for a camper. Fruits are evaporated in such 
excellent style that it is not necessary to buy them 
canned and fill up space with tin and water. Most 

16 




Washing Dishes at Camp Wild Wood. Page 49. 




Our Dining Table. Page 47. 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

excellent of all will be found the famous Boston 
canned beans. All provisions should be carried in 
strong canvas bags, tied at the top with a string. 
Never risk carrying them in paper bags. 
List for three men on a two weeks' trip : 
15 pounds hard bread. 
15 pounds bacon in bag. 
3 pounds dried apples. 
2 pounds dried prunes. 

2 pounds salt in bag. 

5 pounds sugar in bag. 
5 pounds coffee in tight can. 
1-2 pounds tea in can. 

5 cans condensed cream. 

6 cans Boston baked beans. 

3 cans chicken. 
5 pounds butter. 
5 pounds lard. 

5 pounds white flour. 
10 pounds Indian meal. 
2 packages buckwheat flour. 
2 packages oatmeal. 
1-2 bushel potatoes. 
10 pounds onions. 
1 pound baking powder. 
17 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

1-4 pound pepper. 

1 quart vinegar. 

2 gallons maple syrup. 

1 jar pickles. 

2 dozen eggs. 

The cost of the above will amount to about $15. 
Some of these supplies should be purchased where 
you start into the woods^ eggs, butter, lard, etc., 
while the rest can be taken up with you in an old 
trunk or box. 



18 



CHAPTER Vm* 
Advice About Camp Location* 

TO be able to select a good location for a camp 
is an accomplishment that few persons have. 
There are many guides who are lacking in this re- 
spect, but some can select the right spot at once. 
It seems to be an instinct, and one can never acquire 
this faculty by reading books, but there are a few 
general directions that will help one who is seeking 
knowledge of the woods. 

Weather permitting always pitch your camp on 
high ground. Everyone at first selects a place near 
the water, but this is wrong, as the ground is liable 
to be damp and wet and the mosquitoes are always 
much worse near the water. Pitch your tent on top 
of a high ridge near some sheltering trees or on a 
hill. Do not pass a good camping ground in the 
afternoon unless you are sure of reaching one before 
night. It is better to stop at 3 o^clock near good 
water and wood than to run the risk of finding it in 

19 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

the dark. In travelling through the woods in sum- 
mer time, if you are to camp without a tent, make 
your bed near the trunk of a large tree. Its 
branches will shield you from dew or frost and from 
exposure to the wind. It requires considerable skill 
to build a good fire. Proceed in this manner : Lay 
down two green poles, five or six inches thick, two 
feet long and two or three feet apart, make notches 
in these about one foot apart. Then cut two poles 
about the same size and lay them in the notches. 
Procure a good supply of dry wood and brush and 
start the fire on the ground between the upper poles. 
The air mil circulate under and through the fire, 
and top poles will be found just the right distance 
apart to set your camp kettle, frying pan and coffee 
pot. Over the fireplace you can erect a crane as 
follows : Cut two green sticks with crotches at the 
top. Across which lay a green pole about two inches 
thick. Now cut a hooked limb and hang it on the 
cross pole, at the other end of which you can drive 
a nail for hanging pails over the fire. 



CHAPTER IX. 
Camp Receipts. 

IN preparing the various dishes that the sports- 
man loves a practical knowledge of cookery is 
essential. To those who have never cooked they 
will find that experience is the best teacher, and 
one should begin at the bottom, taking only the 
simplest and most common every-day dishes that 
are made with the help of milk, butter, eggs, etc. 

Coffee 

Have the coffee ground moderately fine and use 
one tablespoonful to each pint of water. If wanted 
stronger add more coffee. If you wish about two 
quarts of coffee use nearly three quarts of water to 
allow for boiling. First boil the water, then put 
in the coffee and allow to simmer near the fire and 
boil for twenty minutes on hot ashes. Clear by 
dropping in the white of an egg if you have it, if 
not cold water poured in will have the same result. 

21 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Allow one teaspoonful for each person, place in 
the pot and pour in hoiling water. Settle with a 
little cold water. 

Biscuits* 

Take two pints of flour, add a teaspoonful of salt, 
one of baking powder and a small lump of lard, mix 
well with your fingers. Pour in gradually enough 
cold water to make a stiff dough, then make into 
the usual sized biscuits, bake in camp oven described 
in Chapter VI. 

Trout and Other Fish* 

Trout can be cooked in a great variety of ways; 
the one I like best is broiled. After the fish are 
dressed and the head removed, if large size, separate 
in two parts, cut three slashes in the sides, then 
roll in Indian meal and salt, place in a broiler and 
cook over hot coals, spreading a little butter over 
them with a knife. 

Trout can be fried in pork or bacon fat after first 
rolling them in Indian meal over a hot fire. To 
bake fish in clay mix water and clay with your 
fingers into a stiff mud to the consistency of putty. 

22 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

EoU it out with a bottle to a half inch in thickness 
after first dressing the fish. Cover it completely 
with the clay, of course seasoning it with salt and 
pepper. Dig a hole in the ground at the edge of 
the fireplace, place it in and cover with hot ashes 
first, and on the top place hot coals, cook nearly two 
hours, according to the size. When removed the 
clay will be cooked hard. Break this and the skin 
and scales will come off with the clay. Fowls can 
be cooked this way. Leave the feathers on, as the 
clay will pull these off. 

Trout stew can be prepared by boiling pieces of 
the fish in water with potatoes and bits of onions, 
flavored with pepper and salt. 

Poached Egfgfs. 

Toast two pieces of bread to a light brown, then 
butter. Poach your eggs in boiling milk enough to 
float them. When cooked sufficiently place one egg 
on each pie"ce of toast, pouring enough milk over 
the whole to moisten the toast. 

Eggs may be scrambled in a fry pan by adding 

sufficient condensed cream thinned with water. 

Dropped and boiled eggs are always desirable in 

camp. If you boil the eggs very hard they may be 

23 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

kept till the following meal or carried on tramping 
excursions for lunch. 

Saratogfa Chips* 

Have a spider partly full of hot lard. It is better 
to have the potatoes boiled soft first, but not mealy. 
Cut the potatoes in thin slices and drop into the 
boiling lard. Serve with salt and pepper. 

Stewed Potatoes. 

Cut the potatoes into thin slices, add a few slices 
of bacon and stew in a frying pan with enough water 
to cover them. Pour in a half pint of milk while 
stewing. When the milk thickens, salt and pepper 
to taste. A raw onion cut up in the pan adds flavor. 

Baked potatoes are delicious. They should be 
cooked in hot ashes. 

Potato soup can be made by boiling small pieces 
in water and milk, adding broken bits of hard 
crackers. Season with scraps of onions, with pepper 
and salt. 

Onions* 

Onions can be eaten raw or fried in enough lard 
or bacon fat to keep from burning. 
24 







\'k 




"'ii. 








/ , i * 




*-• 



Camp Ash Tree, Kennebago River. Page 56. 
(Now gone to Decay.) 



■" — «^ 




^^^"^^■^^mtsL 


f^ . 







Camp Wild Bank, Kennebago River. (Page 56.) 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

Rice* 

Eice swells very mucli in boiling and a teacupful 
will make a very large dish when cooked. Place a 
cupful in a large camp kettle and cover with about 
two inches of water, boil slowly until soft, then 
gradually let the water boil away until the grains 
are swollen and dry. Eat with sugar and milk. 
Cold rice can be fried like mush for breakfast. Mix 
a little flour with it to prevent crumbling. 

Oatmeal. 

Prepared oatmeal should be boiled in water about 
twenty minutes until soft. Be careful to stir while 
boiling to prevent burning. Add salt while boiling. 
Eat with sugar and milk or with syrup. 

Deer Stew« 

This is the great dish for all sportsmen, and is a 
favorite with all the guides in the state of Maine. 
Hang your camp kettle over the fire and fill about 
half full with water. Take some small, lean pieces 
of deer or moose steak, and after cutting off all the 
fat drop them in the water, boil for about two 
hours until the meat will nearly drop to pieces, then 
add potatoes, onions, carrots and small pieces of 

25 



GAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

crackers, let simmer until the vegetables are soft. 
While boiling yon must skim off the fat that rises 
to the top, season the stew with salt and pepper. If 
not thick enough mix enough flour and water and 
add to the stew, boiling a few minutes longer. 
Leave some of the stew for the following day, then 
thicken as above and boil again. 

Craw Fish for Lobsters* 

The waters of Lobster Lake, Moosehead, Maine, 
abound in small craw fish, and they can be cooked 
as follows: Tear off the extreme end of the tail, 
which will carry with it the little black string or en- 
trail, boil whole with some salt thrown in. They 
will turn to a reddish color when done. Peel and 
eat as you would a lobster. Have in a saucer a little 
vinegar, salt and pepper and dip in this before eat- 
ing. 

Fried Mtish. 

One of the most palatable dishes is made by boil- 
ing mush in the evening and setting away to cool 
and harden over night. For breakfast slice about 
half an inch thick and fry in hot lard until brown 
on both sides. Eat hot with maple syrup or mo- 
lasses. 

26 



WHAT TO TAKE, 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

These can be easily made from prepared self- 
raising flour, "Hecker^s" being one of the best known 
brands. Follow directions on the package and you 
will have no difficulty in preparing one of the most 
desirable of all dishes for camp. 



27 



CHAPTER X. 
Other List of Supplies^ 

BLACK FLY cream can be made by mixing two 
parts of oil tar and one part olive oil. This 
solution will not evaporate quickly and is a sure 
remedy against black flies and mosquitoes. 

Take a little machine oil for your rifle or shot- 
gun. This can be rubbed over the barrel at night 
to prevent rusting. 

If you are a smoker don't fail to take your pipe 
and plenty of tobacco. There is great pleasure in 
a pipe before an open fire after supper. 

Whiskey should be left at home. You will not 
need it in camp. 

A screwdriver comes in handy at times for repair- 
ing rifles. A pocket knife should also be taken and 
a pair of scissors. 

Take plenty of toilet soap and a small brush for 
scrubbing your hands. A bathing sponge will be 
found very useful. 

28 



WHAT TO TAKE. 

Razor, small looking-glass for shaving, tooth- 
brush, powder, hair brush and comb should also be 
taken along. 



29 



CAMPING TRIPS. 



CHAPTER XL 
The Headwaters of the Andfoscog:§fin River* 

SITIJATED on the top of a small mountain in 
Maine, seventeen hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, is a small pond known as Mountain 
Pond. 

Alone, surrounded for tractless miles by dense 
forests of hemlock and spruce trees, this pond has 
been for ages the home of the speckled trout and 
the land locked salmon. Seldom has the sound of 
an axe, or the report of a gun, broken its death-like 
silence, and save for the occasional cry of a loon, 
the hoot of an owl, or the snapping of a twig, caused 
by some animal coming to drink, has its solitude 
been broken. Thick spruce trees grow to the edge 
of the water, parts of which are in darkness, while 
others, more open, sparkle with a dazzling bright- 
ness under the rays of the sun. Fed only by un- 
30 



THE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

known springs the water of this pond never reaches 
the temperature of 50 degrees, and fly fishing from 
the time the ice goes out until winter again is of the 
highest quality. At the northwestern corner of this 
secluded pond a tiny brook flows out and quickly 
disappears into the darkness of the forest, to finally 
empty itself into a larger pond called "Beaver," 
which in turn empties into Long Pond at the foot 
of the mountain. From there one can go by canoe 
until finally the Androscoggin Eiver is reached, and 
thence to the sea. 

My friend George and I, anxious for adventures 
wilder than can be found at summer hotels, decided 
to take a camping trip, and chose for our location 
Mountain Pond or the head waters of the Andros- 
coggin Eiver. Probably every sportsman in New 
England knows that there are two ways to reach 
Eangeley. One by rail to Bemis on Mooselookme- 
guntic Lake and then by boat with a carry of two 
miles between the two lakes. The other all rail 
direct to Eangeley. But at the time our adventures 
happened there was only one way to reach Eangeley, 
and that was by train to Phillips, and from there 
take the stage the rest of the way, a distance of 
about twenty miles through a beautiful and pic- 
31 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

turesque country. It is hardly necessary to men- 
tion all the camping articles we took with us, as 
everyone has a list of his own, but whatever you 
take into the woods don't forget some waterproof 
matches. You may find yourself in a tight place 
sometime and then what wouldn't you give for a 
match that would light ? 

We prepared ourselves for a rough trip, leaving 
behind everything that was not absolutely neces- 
sary. Some heavy tramping boots are indispensable, 
high enough to keep out sticks that invariably find 
a way in when climbing over fallen trees. Rubber 
boots are not necessary; many nights we slept in 
wet clothes, but one never catches cold in Maine. 
A heavy sweater is valuable for use in all kinds of 
weather. 

The subject of what food to take is hard to de- 
cide. We drew up a list of what we thought would 
be enough, then cut it in halves and trusted to luck 
to furnish the other half. Our cooking utensils, 
axes, guns, etc., we sent with the rest of our baggage, 
and everything being arranged we found ourselves 
one July morning rapidly approaching Farmington; 
there we changed cars for the narrow gauge road, 
and it was very interesting to ride on a t^'ain the 
82 




Trout Fishing In The Kennebago River. Page 56. 



THE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

width of an electric car, through dense forests, 
winding around the side of some high mountain, or 
plunging into the depths of deep ravines. One 
bridge was particularly high and we could feel the 
trestle sway with the motion of the train as it moved 
slowly over the slender wood framework. Looking 
down into the depths below a small brook could be 
seen, but it soon lost itself in the surrounding for- 
est. Wood was burned in the engine for fuel, and 
it was difficult work moving the train up steep 
grades, but at last we reached Phillips. 
"No stage to Rangeley till the next day.^' 
That was our luck, but it couldn^t be helped, so we 
set out to enjoy ourselves for the rest of the after- 
noon. "Excitement" in Phillips is not found in 
their dictionary, but we managed to have a pleasant 
time visiting the falls of the Sandy River. There 
the river has eaten its way through fifty or sixty 
feet of solid rock, leaving large plateaus, one on 
top of the other, like huge steps extending from 
the roadway to the very edge of the water. 

A few photos of this bit of nature we added to 
our collection and feeling slightly (?) hungry we 
returned to the hotel again. It must be very dull 
33 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

living in such a town as Phillips — nothing to break 
the continued monotony. 

Once in awhile some bronze farmer drives by the 
hotel, in a wagon falling to pieces, the horse in the 
same condition. You can hear him hollering "Gee 
up there" long before he arrives in sight. All the 
loafers, standing in front of the only grocery store, 
stare and grin until he finally disappears in a cloud 
of dust ten feet thick. 

We were up at 7 o'clock the next morning and by 
8.30 ready to start. The stage was simply a three- 
seated wagon drawn by four horses. For some miles 
the country was open, farm houses being scattered 
here and there, but suddenly the road plunged into 
a deep ravine and surrounded us by dense woods for 
several miles. 

We soon reached the Sandy Eiver Ponds. 

These the stage road followed for about three 
miles until the Greenvale Plantation was reached, 
where we stopped for dinner. 

Greenvale Plantation is a collection of about three 
houses and one barn, situated almost at the foot of 
Saddleback Mountain. A small stream rises on this 
mountain, and taking time after dinner we visited 
the falls and cascades that are near the house, ob- 
34 



TEE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

taining several fine views of some very wild scenery. 
Fishing in this stream is excellent. The writer 
made a catch, some two weeks later, of seventy-five 
brook trout in one day, weighing from 1-4 to 1 
pound. About three years ago the Greenvale house 
caught fire and the nearest fire engine being miles 
away the house burned to the ground and Greenvale 
Plantation is no more. The distance from Green- 
vale to Eangeley is three miles. This part of the 
journey we found the most pleasant. The road 
being on high ground gave us a fine view of Eange- 
ley Lake, surrounded on all sides by green hills and 
towering mountains. At last Eangeley Village 
came in sight and the stage dashed down the hill 
to stop at the front steps of the hotel. Making ar- 
rangements for stopping over night we started to 
find our old guide, "Eben," who was to go with us 
on our expedition. We were finally successful ' and 
our guide welcomed us with the well-known Maine 
greeting, "How be ye.^^ Early the next morning 
we found Eben at the hotel dressed in camping cos- 
tume, with a buckboard to take us to Long Pond, 
which was to be our starting point. 

It was a clear, cold day so often found in Maine 
during the latter part of July. The wind blowing 
35 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

from the north gave promise of pleasant weather 
for several days. We rode direct to Greenvale. 
There we took the right hand turn, through several 
clearings. 

Once we saw a partridge and her young cross the 
road ahead of us, but they quickly disappeared in 
the hushes. From the top of a hill we saw Long 
Pond sparkling under the rays of the sun, at the 
lower end of which rose the mountain that we were 
soon to make our camping ground. 

Our guide thought it best to hire a boat at a 
house near by and visit the inlet, camping there for 
a few days. This we agreed to do and stowing our 
things in a good cedar boat we soon severed our last 
ties with civilization. A little more than two-thirds 
of the way from the outlet of Long Pond flows a 
fairly large stream. 

Here we decided to make our camp, and heading 
for the shore Eben gave three powerful strokes with 
the oars and the boat stuck fast on a sand bar. 
Pushing with the oars did no good. The only help 
was to take off shoes and stockings and Jump into 
the icy water, and by dragging the boat a short dis- 
tance we reached the shore in safety. The beach 
extended in a long curve, and near where we landed 
36 



TEE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER, 

a small spring bubbled out of the sand. This would 
make fine drinking water, so we decided to build our 
camp just back of the spring. 

Not having a tent with us we started at once to 
build a lean-to.'' Selecting a dry place, we drove 
two stakes into the ground, in the forks of which 
we placed a pole, and from this we ran small poles 
to the ground. This completed the framework, the 
roof we thatched with hemlock boughs, using the 
softest for the bed. A fireplace having been made 
on the shore we soon had supper cooked, which we 
found quite acceptable. About sunset my friend 
and I went for a paddle. Not a sound broke the 
stillness of the evening. Occasionally the cry of a 
loon would be heard, then all was still again. As 
the darkness increased it became colder, and a mist 
rose off the water, making us feel that a fire would 
be acceptable, but Eben had anticipated us and al- 
ready the cheerful blaze of a roaring fire sent up its 
showers of sparks into the shadow of the forest. To 
sit by a camp fire in the wilds of Maine and listen 
to bear stories is pure enjoyment. 

At the most exciting part a blazing log in the fire 
will drop, making several cold shivers run down 
your back, but the steady gaze at the burning logs 

37 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

made us sleepy, and we were ready by 9 o^clock to 
tumble in on our fragrant fir boughs. It being 
quite cold we examined the thermometer and to our 
surprise found the mercury as low as 44 degrees, 
while it went even lower during the night. In fact, 
the cold being so great we woke up about four in the 
morning stiff and sore, and on making another ex- 
amination found the temperature had dropped to 38 
degrees. 

This being Friday, we felt the need of some fish, 
so taking my rod I walked to the mouth of the 
stream, where I soon captured several trout which 
were quickly dressed and broiled over a hot fire. 
What more could one wish for than a breakfast of 
oat meal, bacon, broiled trout, buckwheat cakes and 
coffee? For several days the weather continued 
fine, and the temperature went as low as 40 de- 
grees for two nights. 

Our lean-to, facing the pond, was somewhat ex- 
posed, but we managed to keep warm with four 
blankets over us and by sleeping in a sweater. Near 
the mouth of the stream a blazed trail led to Beaver 
Pond, and all of us agreeing it would be a good 
trip to make we started early one morning prepared 
for a hard tramp, taking with us our dinner, the 



THE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

guns and fishing tackle. At first the trail followed 
the stream through swampy ground and walking 
was not easy. We would step on a tuft of grass 
that looked solid, then down we would go up to the 
tops of our boots. A gentle rise soon placed us on 
hard ground again, and here we bagged some par- 
tridges. After three miles of tramping over fallen 
trees we lost the blaze, and it was only by hard work 
that it was found again. About noon the land be- 
came quite level and at last through a maze of trees 
a break was seen, which became larger as we pushed 
ahead and breaking through the bushes the waters 
of a pond spread out before us. Not fifty yards 
away stood a buck and two fawns. Not wishing to 
kill them we fired a gun into the air. With one 
bound they were on the bank and kicking their heels 
in the air they disappeared into the bushes. Beaver 
Pond is really a river dammed by Beavers making a 
stretch of water about two miles long. There is 
only one way to cross this pond, which is over a 
tree that has fallen between its narrowest points. 

The guide went across, but the temptation to fish 
being too great I walked out on the log and cast my 
flies. The instant the line touched the water I had 
a strike and hooking my prize I landed a trout about 

39 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

1-4 lb. in weight, one of the most beautiful speci- 
mens I have ever seen, the skin being a rich brown 
and the spots a brilliant red. A dozen of these 
being enough for our wants we gathered our traps 
together and started for camp, arriving about six, 
tired and hungry. The next two days it rained 
hard and the wind blew a hurricane. We spent the 
time playing cards under a shelter of canvas we had 
erected over our kitchen table. At the best, rainy 
weather in camp is very monotonous, and we were 
glad when the storm finally left us. 

We broke camp early the next morning and row- 
ing to the outlet of Long Pond we hid our boat in 
the bushes. There we divided the luggage into 
three bundles and commenced at once to climb the 
mountain. 

A heavy growth of bushes lined the shore for some 
distance, and brushing them aside as we pushed 
through our clothes were soon soaking wet, but 
walking warmed us some and the water soon dried 
off. As we ascended our bundles became heavier 
and we were soon obliged to stop and rest. Fortu- 
nately near us a small brook flowed across the path 
and we quenched our thirst with the clear, cold 
water. The black flies soon gave us warning that it 
40 



TEE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

was time to move, so shouldering our packs we 
pushed on again through the forest. We had not 
advanced far when it became necessary to resort to 
the axe to clear away a large windfall that was 
directly across our path. Noon soon came and find- 
ing ourselves at a dividing point in the path we 
called a halt for dinner. Underground we could 
hear running water, and by digging down about two 
feet found a small brook, the water of which we 
used to make coffee. 

Our lunch being ended we commenced at once to 
scale the high precipice into which the path led us, 
and after tearing our clothes and scraping the skin 
off in several places we finally reached the top in 
safety. On we pushed and it seemed as if night 
would overtake us before reaching the pond, but 
fortunately we were mistaken, for there far ahead 
through the trees a small opening was seen, and 
hastening on we broke through the bushes to behold 
Mountain Pond, which had been our dreams for so 
many long months. No deer were feeding in the 
bay, but in the lily pads close by several ducks swam 
lazily around — two of these we killed with our shot- 
gun, and by wading out managed to reach them 
with a long pole. 

41 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Our first duty was to locate the lean-to we knew 
had been built near the path. This we soon found 
and everything was arranged comfortably for the 
night. We made an excellent meal on roast duck 
and some trout we had brought up from Long Pond. 
As soon as night began to fall hoot owls and once 
in a while screech owls would send their weird cry, 
echoing across the pond. The guide told bear 
stories until too tired to talk any longer we soon fell 
asleep. There was no boat at Mountain Pond, and 
knowing that trout swarmed in the deep holes we 
were anxious to try our luck. The only way out of 
the difficulty seemed to be for us to build a raft, 
from which we could fish. Selecting two large trees 
we felled them, and cutting these in halves laid the 
four logs side by side in the water; we nailed small 
poles across to hold the logs together. 

With two slim poling rods we started pushing the 
raft up the pond against a head wind. This was not 
easy, but by hard pushing we soon reached the head 
of the pond. Here we let the wind drift us back 
again, and our fun commenced. Casting our flies 
from the raft we landed trout, one, two and three 
pounds in weight. Several large ones got away with 
hooks and part of the line, but we were able to catch 
42 



TEE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

twenty or so before the raft reached the lower end 
of the pond. Having enough for our wants we re- 
turned to camp to lie around till dinner time. Not 
far away from Mountain Pond lies a small sheet of 
water (not named on the map), that we decided to 
visit. No trail or path led to this pond, so we used 
our compass to find the way, blazing the trees as we 
pushed through the forest that extended unbroken 
for miles around. It was easy work at first making 
a path, but after blazing trees for about an hour we 
came upon one of our marks that had been made 
perhaps a half hour before. Evidently we had 
travelled in a complete circle. Knowing how easily 
one could get lost in these woods one of us climbed 
a high spruce tree and from the top took the bear- 
ings by the sun. A couple of hours more tramping 
and blazing trails brought us to a high ridge. Here 
a heavily beaten deer path led directly down into a 
deep hollow. This we followed, and as we advanced 
deer and moose tracks became more numerous. 
This showed we were near the pond, and before we 
were aware of it we were at the water's edge. Three 
deer stood in the water near us, and not knowing a 
better name for such a body of water we called it 
"Deer Pond.'' We erected a small lean-to on a dry 
43 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

spot, and by the time this was completed it was long 
past supper time, as the sun was setting thick clouds 
gathered and it began to rain hard. The boughs on 
the roof of the lean-to were laid very thick and al- 
though it rained all night no water leaked through. 
Clear and bright the sun shone in our faces the next 
morning, and rubbing our stiff limbs we tumbled 
out of camp, and soon had some trout frying for 
breakfast. The black flies being thick about this 
pond we decided to go around it once and then re- 
turn to camp. There were certainly enough deer 
around this pond to satisfy anyone. Every little 
while we would hear one blowing and then the ani- 
mal would stamp olf into the woods with a rush. 

Hard beaten path after path would cross and re- 
cross each other in all directions, once in a while a 
large, deep hole would show where moose or caribou 
had left their foot prints. We gathered a lot of 
spruce gum on our way back, and from one tree we 
collected about three pounds of almost pure gum. 
During the winter men make a business of getting 
gum, as it sells for about $1.10 a pound to the deal- 
ers. We easily found our trail back, and taking a 
last look at Deer Pond we made our way back to 
camp. It would take too much space to tell all we 
44 



THE ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER. 

did during the remainder of our stay at Mountain 
Pond, and all the places we visited. 

The time passed very rapidly, and before we knew 
it our vacation had come to an end. Our supply of 
food ran short, so gathering together our traps we 
bade ''good bye'^ to Mountain Pond, and making our 
way down the mountain we arrived without any mis- 
hap. Getting a team at a house near by we were 
driven to Eangeley village and found ourselves sur- 
rounded once more by the luxuries of civilization. 
The next day Eben drove us to Phillips. Here our 
trip ended, and bidding "good bye^' to our guide we 
took the train for Boston, where we arrived safely. 

Our trip had been so full of interest that we both 
agreed to try our luck again in the woods on our 
next summer's vacation. 



45 



CHAPTER XIL 
Three Weeks In a Maine Logf Cabin. 

ONE who has never camped in a log cabin in 
the wilds of the Maine woods has something 
to live for. Although a tent is really the best way 
to camp out, because one is able to move from place 
to" place and take his "house" with him, in a canoe, 
there is no enjoyment greater than the pleasure of 
living in a Maine log cabin. The wildness, the soli- 
tude and the romance that surround one of these 
abodes of the early pioneer is entrancing indeed. 
Hundreds of these camps are found on streams, 
ponds and lakes, from one end of Maine to the 
other; some are easy of access, while others are 
worth a man's life to get to, and when once reached 
it is a poor sportsman indeed who ever wants to 
leave it. Log camps are to a lover of the woods a 
rural palace. Of course one cannot have spring 
beds, and bell boys to run errands, but to be chief 
cook and dish washer is certainly good experience, 

46 



IN A MAINE LOG CABIN, 

and any amount of fun. If the oatmeal is burned 
in the morning it only adds flavor to the ^breakf ast, 
or if the corncake absolutely refuses to rise, one 
can use it for an anchor the next time he goes 
fishing. A good housekeeper never wastes any- 
thing in camp. The many dishes one can cook in 
camp is surprising. Take trout for instance; they 
can be baked, fried in Indian meal, or fried in bacon 
and onions, roasted in cla}^, or best of all broiled 
over a fire of hot coals. I don't believe there is a 
better dish on earth than broiled small brook trout, 
eaten bones and all ! But it is not every one who is 
fortunate enough to be able to cook over a camp 
stove. The fire is certainly a hot one — and hungry 
sportsmen never can wait long enough for an oven 
to bake. The inside furnishings of most log cabins 
are not elegant, but they are substantial. Large 
bunks with beds of spruce boughs fresh from the 
forest, fragrant with the smell of fir balsam. 

A large table upon which we pile everything in 
the way of eating utensils, cans of preserves and 
bottles of olives and pickles. A couple of rude 
chairs and perhaps a stool or two add to the fur- 
nishings of the camp. A few windows appear on 
the sides or front of the camp, some with glass, most 

47 



GAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

of them with the place where the glass ought to be. 
Good camps have the roof made of cedar trees 
split into rails, others have bark stripped from 
spruce trees in the spring time, spread over the top, 
which is a good protection from rain when the 
bark is new, but after a season or so it goes all to 
pieces. Between the logs of these camps huge quan- 
tities of moss is stuffed, which is a pretty good pre- 
ventive against the cold, but it doesnH keep the 
mosquitoes from crawling in somewhere, and when 
once in the only possible show of living is to build 
an enormous smudge in a kettle on the floor, open 
all windows and doors, and then watch them come 
buzzing angrily out. But in spite of these few dis- 
advantages the fact of living in the midst of the 
Maine wilderness, miles from any town or railroad, 
and knowing that one is thrown upon his own re- 
sources, makes a man of a fellow. Situated in a 
small secluded cove, on Lake Mooselookmeguntic, 
Eangeley, is a small camp named "Wild Wood." 
Two cabins comprise this settlement, one a cook 
house and the other a dining room, which is kept 
locked by its owner. The cook house, however, is 
left open for the use of sportsmen, and whether it 
is used or not can readily be seen by the hundreds 
48 



IN A MAINE LOG CABIN. 

of names written and carved all over the logs of the 
camp. The water in the lake reaches the piazza, 
and all one has to do when he washes dishes is to 
lean over the front piazza, reach a little sand off the 
bottom and the rest is easy, as can be seen by the 
photograph. The fish in the lake enjoy this wash- 
ing of dishes as much as the one who does it, and 
their excitement is so great that they jump all over 
themselves in their eagerness to get every morsel 
thrown at them. Inside the camp there are two 
bunks large enough for two in each, a table, stools, 
and a good cook stove. 

The surroundings of this camp are very pictur- 
esque indeed, and near by are two ponds, Eichard- 
son and Deer Ponds, where one can always get a 
glimpse of deer, and good fishing. While at "Wild 
Wood" we had an exciting adventure that happened 
one evening when returning from a paddle on the 
lake. The shades of night were just falling, dark- 
ening the outline of the shore, which we could see 
from our canoe through the mist, just rising off the 
waters. A few stars were commencing to twinkle 
in the clear sky, not a sound broke the stillness of 
the evening, occasionally a splash in the lake, where 
some trout had captured a fly, or the cry of a loon 
49 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

echoing across the water awoke us from the revery 
that we had fallen into. As we approached the 
shadow cast by the shore on the water, my friend 
made the cold shivers run down my back by sudden- 
ly exclaiming, "What^s that in front of the camp?'' 
Stopping with my paddle I gazed intently ahead, 
and there in front of the cabin facing directly to- 
wards us from the door which we had carelessly left 
open stood an animal perfectly still. Not wishing 
to frighten the beast, and wondering what it could 
be, we proceeded towards shore very cautiously. As 
we drew nearer our eyes became more accustomed 
to the darkness, and imagine our surprise when we 
discovered that our visitor was one of those large 
sized hedge-hogs so common in the Maine woods, but 
harmless as he might be, Mr. Porcupine must be 
disposed of before we could enter our camp. 
Strange as it may seem, the only weapon we could 
find between us was a 33-calibre revolver which I 
had put in my pocket before starting, and as I had 
been so thoughtful in taking such a useful thing 
along with me, my friend decided that I was the 
proper one to face the enemy, so screwing my cour- 
age up to the starting point I climbed out over the 
bow of the canoe onto the end of the piazza, crawled 
60 



IN A MAINE LOG CABIN. 

two steps toward the hedge-hog, took careful aim 
and fired. The most awful report rent the night 
air, the bullet hit somewhere, then bounced into the 
lake near me with a splash. The blinding flash and 
concussion of the revolver stunned me at first, but 
recovering from the shock I heard my friend hol- 
lering, "Eun, he's after you!'' Once was enough, 
and it was a matter of about three seconds before 
I had fled to the woods and commenced to climb a 
tree. ^Tt's all right, he's gone in the camp," came 
from the canoe, and retracing my steps I once more 
advanced on the enemy. "You had better take a 
light in with you," suggested my friend, and think- 
ing that a good plan I tore a long strip of birch bark 
from a tree near by, and lighting this I proceeded 
at once into the cabin. 

The darkness was intense, but soon the torch 
blazed up brightly, and there under our stove I per- 
ceived two shining green spots pointing directly at 
me. "I've got you now," I said to myself, and tak- 
ing careful aim I blazed away at the animal. The 
report was so loud at first I was unable to tell what 
happened. I simply knew that the bullet had struck 
the stove and bounced on the table! Evidently I 
was rattled and a poor shot, but I had no time for 
51 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

reflection. The green spots of light commenced to 
move, and in my direction; I was determined this 
time to hit him or die in the attempt, so waiting 
until his hody came out from behind the stove 1 
fired a third time and with effect, for the porcupine 
with quills standing on end made for the door, and 
as I happened to be between him and that means of 
exit I gladly went out first, and left him a free pas- 
sageway, which he availed himself of, disappearing 
into the woods, leaving behind him a considerable 
quantity of quills and a few drops of blood. Our 
next camping place was at Pine Point, further down 
the lake. We reached camp about 9 o'clock, as the 
full moon was rising over the tree-tops, and after 
considerable trouble we made the shore by cutting a 
channel through the dead driftwood and stumps of 
trees that lined the beach. 

Pine Point camp is a deserted loggers' camp, and 
a wilder looking place I have never seen. The camp 
itself is a rude affair and not very inviting, but we 
were there for the night anyway, and the fact that 
we had not eaten supper told us that we had better 
take possession at once. Birch bark once more be- 
came of use as a light, and with a torch made of this 
flaming material we entered boldly, peering into 
52 



IN A MAINE LOO CABIN. 

corners of the camp for any intruder that might be 
there, but we did not discover any, so quickly bring- 
ing our luggage from the canoe we soon had a good 
fire made on the floor, in the middle of the camp. 
When we finished our supper of fried bacon it was 
bed time, so extinguishing the fire, but not the 
smoke, we ascended above to the bunk made of bean 
poles, and then we regretted ever building a fire in 
the camp. The smoke was something frightful, but 
it drove out the mosquitoes, and that was one con- 
solation. Our bunk faced the window, and the 
moon shone in wdth a beam of light on the floor 
beneath. We had begun to doze off a little, when 
a loud scratching was heard at the door of the camp, 
then a grunt or two. "What's that?" whispered 
my friend, and sitting up in bed we peered with 
smarting eyes through the smoke at the moonlight 
on the window; some more scratching, and as we 
looked a head appeared, then the body of an animal 
reached the window sill. "One of those hedge-hogs 
again," exclaimed George, and he was right. This 
time I was going to let him show his prowess with 
the revolver, so taking careful aim he let drive, the 
pistol went off, but the animal never moved. Once 
more he pulled the trigger, but he never touched 

58 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

him. The hedge-hog realizing that something was 
up moved across the window, and at that moment 
George fired again, and I could see the animal 
scramble off the window to the ground and he van- 
ished into the woods. 

We woke up about 3 o'clock the next morning 
stiff, and full of holes, made by knots that were in 
the bean poles. It was pretty cold, too, and feeling 
the need of a little something to eat, I climbed down 
from the bunk, gathered together a few sticks and 
shavings and lit a fire on the floor. Opening our 
pack of provisions I put my hands on a strip of 
bacon first, and thinking that would go pretty well I 
sliced off a couple of strips, put them on a forked 
stick and held them over the fire. My friend up 
above was too sleepy to pay much attention to what 
I was doing, so I relapsed into perfect silence and 
watched the drops of fat drip off the frying bacon 
into the fire. One side of the bacon was pretty well 
fried, and I was about to turn it over, when from the 
outside of the camp came the most blood-curdling 
cry and shriek that I had ever heard. It sounded 
as if a man were being murdered. Dropping the 
bacon into the fire I made one dive for the rifle, and 
my friend, who just realized that something had hap- 
54 



IN A MAINE LOO CABIN. 

pened, cried out "What's that?" "I don't know; I 
think it must be a panther or a wild cat/' I replied, 
and I was just on the point of opening the door with 
the idea of looking into the matter when with a sec- 
ond cry louder and wilder than the first broke the 
stillness of the forest. "Guess I won't go outside 
just yet/' I exclaimed, and waiting five minutes or so 
to see if it came again I cautiously opened the door 
and looked out. The first faint flush of the break of 
day appeared in the sky, but not a breath of air 
moved in the forest. Stepping outside I tried to 
obtain sight or sound of our strange visitor, but with- 
out success, probably he had vanished to another part 
of the forest. It was a strange experience, and we 
have often wondered what the animal could have 
been. A rabbit was shot in the morning, the skin of 
which we spread on the roof of our camp to dry, on 
the lower right hand corner. Getting tired of the 
lake we started the next day for Kennebago Eiver to 
go up as far as "Wild Bank" camp. If you have 
never been up Kennebago Eiver in a canoe you don't 
know what hard work is. The first part of the 
journey was dead water and easy. enough, but when 
the quick water was reached then the work began. 
At Screw Auger falls we got in a tight spot and 

55 



GAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

thought we were over sure, my hat was lost in the ex- 
citement, and the roaring water rapidly carried it out 
of sight. 

Eighteen rapids and falls were poled and dragged 
over before we reached "Ash Tree" camp, once there 
we rested for an hour or so, after which we continued 
on again over eight more rapids to camp "Wild 
Bank." 

This camp is a well built one, perfectly watertight, 
and with four large bunks. The stove is also of good 
size and quite new. The owner of this camp leases it 
by the day or week to camping parties, and one need 
have no fear of porcupines in this camp because it is 
kept locked when not occupied. This part of the 
river is as far up as one can go in a canoe, and the 
fishing commences at this point. The game season 
was open when we were there and the ducks and par- 
tridges that we brought into camp proved it to be a 
sportsman's paradise. After staying in camp for a 
few days we decided to go on an exploring expedi- 
tion up the river, about a day's journey, and build a 
^^ean-to." Taking with us sweaters, an axe, fishing 
rods, frying-pan, eating utensils, and a small supply 
of food, we set out at six o'clock in the morning. 
Following the river bed, we passed through a very 
56 



IN A MAINE LOG CABIN. 

wild and interesting country. Game was seen con- 
tinually, first a fox would run across the path, then a 
partridge would rise up from some low bush and fly 
whirring off into the forest, now and then a deer 
would ^^low" near by, and we would hear the crash 
of trees as he fled away in the distance. About noon 
we examined the map and decided to take a short cut 
to Cupsuptic Pond. Leaving the river on our right 
we struck off in a south easterly direction, at a gait 
of about two miles an hour, but the windfalls and 
thick undergrowth became so dense that we could 
hardly walk at all, and in fact in a very short space of 
time, we began to realize that we had lost our way 
as the pond should have been reached an hour ago. 
Getting lost in the Maine woods is no joke, one might 
wander for days and fail to extricate himself from 
the labyrinth of trees that extend for miles in every 
direction. 

At first neither of us dared to suggest such a thing, 
but the strain became too great, and I exclaimed, 
"Where are we anyway?" "That's what I've been 
thinking," replied my companion, and sitting down 
on the nearest tree stump we mopped our brows and 
looked at each other. It was very important to try 
and get our location from the sun, but from where 
57 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

we were it was impossible to see any part of the sun 
through the dense growth of spruce trees that sur- 
rounded us, so selecting a straight tree my companion 
stripped off part of his clothes, and after considerable 
exertion succeeding in reaching the top. No water 
was in sight, but taking the bearings by the sun, 
which was now nearing the horizon, we pushed ahead 
again for about an hour, when a perceptible change 
was noticed in the growth of trees, the spruces giv- 
ing way to birch, ash and maple trees, and before we 
were aware of it, we had arrived on the top of quite 
an elevation of land. Evidently water would be found 
at the bottom, and with renewed energies we pushed 
on and soon perceived a break in the forest, and the 
roar of a cascade met our ears a hundred yards fur- 
ther and we came out upon the shore of Kennebago 
Eiver, at a point we had passed early in the morning, 
some three miles up. We had gone in a complete 
circle ! It was too late to think of returning, so we 
commenced at once to build our "lean-to" on a dry 
spot of land, on the bank of the river. Deer tracks 
were very thick along the bank, and as night began to 
fall many of them came to drink, not ten yards away 
from our camp. As we were sitting around the 
camp-fire a fox appeared on the opposite shore. ISTot 

58 



IN A MAINE LOG CABIN. 

wishing to hurt the animal we watched it cross over 
the river on a large fallen tree, and disappear into 
the forest. 

Nothing liappened to disturb our night's rest, 
and with the exception of a little lameness the next 
morning we were none the worse for our experience. 

Eetracing our steps to "Wild Bank'' we arrived 
just in time to escape a severe thunder shower which 
came up about noon time. The shower proved a 
longer one than we expected, in fact it settled into a 
severe storm, and after three or four days of very 
disagreeable weather we closed our camp in disgust 
and made our homeward trip, leaving behind us post- 
ed in front of the camp the following notice : 



"Four days and nights we tarried here, 

And every day had rain, 
Till on the fifth in grim despair 

We left the woods of Maine !" 



Our trip down Kennebago Eiver was a quick one, 
very easy work and without any spills, and we arrived 
at Haines Landing about nightfall, safe and sound 
and ready to return to the ease and comfort of civili- 
zation, but in spite of all the hardships that we had 

59 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

been through during the three weeks of our camping 
in Maine we both of us could truly say — 



"It certainly is sweet among the pines 

And I'm so glad I came, 
I never had such glorious times 

Till I came down in Maine!" 



60 



CHAPTER XIIL 
How Wc Saw the Megfantic Preserve* 

GETTING ready for a genuine camping trip is 
certainly not an easy matter. What to take 
and what not to take are questions that one decides a 
dozen times before the right things are selected. 
Then, finding that twice as many things are chosen 
as there is room for, one gives it up as a hopeless task, 
only to commence all over again. 

Small wonder, was it, that some of our party of 
thirteen discovered, as we gathered together at the 
North Union station on that memorable Friday 
morning, the 13th of July, that various articles of 
all descriptions had been forgotten, and well might 
the strongest hearted of us lose courage upon finding 
that the train went on track 13 ! But we had no 
time for reflection, the five minute bell had already 
sounded, and hustling our baggage into the Buffet 
car we waved a last "good bye'' to our friends as the 
train started, and we were soon speeding rapidly to- 

61 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

wards the Megantic Club, Canada, where we were 
to have our summer's outing. 

Selecting our various seats we piled our dress suit 
cases, fishing rods, hats, coats etc., in reckless con- 
fusion and then settled ourselves to read the morning 
newspapers. The city of Lynn was soon passed, and 
by this time having read our papers we adjourned to 
the smoking room, where we had a chance to tell our 
jolly stories and recall our many past experiences. 

Arrangements had been made before leaving to 
pick up several of our party on the way ; the first one 
was to meet us at Fabyans. There our friend waited 
for us to arrive in time for dinner, but he waited in 
vain, as the train was late and we lunched before 
reaching Fabyans. The ride through the White 
Mountains was very pleasant. A clear sky gave an 
excellent chance to photograph the famous Crawford 
Notch from the observation car. The rapid motion 
of the train caused the landscape nearest the camera 
to be blurred, but the "Notch" itself and the moun- 
tains surrounding it on all sides showed up with 
startling clearness. By six o'clock St. Johnsbury 
was reached, our first stopping place. St. Johnsbury 
is an enterprising town, situated on the top of a 
high hill, the view from the top of which is fine in- 

62 



THE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

deed. Several large factories give employment to 
people in the town, and although it is a quiet town 
it certainly is a thriving one. At St. Johnsbury we 
were met by one of the members of the Megantic 
Club and the leader of our party. Escorting us to 
the best hotel ..we partook of a very large dinner, 
especially our friend who had not eaten since morn- 
ing. Taking the 7.56 train we again continued our 
journey northward until Lenoxville was reached. 
Here we were obliged to change cars to the Canadian 
Pacific E. E., carrying our dress suit cases (which 
was all the baggage we had) through a pouring rain 
and a lot of mud to the station. There we waited 
about an hour, killing time by lying on settees and 
taking short naps until about 11.30, when, far in the 
distance, a headlight was seen and the Canadian Pa- 
cific Express (on its way to Halifax), drawn by a 
large engine with three driving wheels, came rushing 
into the station amidst a shower of sparks and a 
roar like thunder. Piling on board we did our best 
to get sleeping berths, but ordinary seats were all we 
got, and in these managed to doze off a bit until at 
2.15 Megantic, P. Q., was reached. There we left 
the train, and after stumbling around in the dark- 
ness for ten minutes we were able to find the Lake 

63 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

View House, where we obtained beds for the re- 
mainder of the night. It was cold, dark, and windy 
when we woke up the next morning. A gale was 
blowing outside, and an occasional spattering of rain 
on the windows did not add much to the cheerfulness 
of the morning, but we quickly dressed, and after a 
hurried breakfast left at once for the steamer which 
was to carry us across Lake Megantic to the portage 
at the upper end of the lake. 

It had been raining in Megantic for four weeks be- 
fore our arrival, and it seemed as if it ought to clear 
up for our benefit, but it didn't, and to say that the 
carry from Megantic Lake to Spider Lake was 
muddy was putting it mildly, but not until the land- 
ing at Spider was reached and it commenced to rain 
hard did we realize how very wet it was. But in 
spite of the rain we enjoyed the trip up the lake in 
the launch, and when the Macannamac Lodge came 
into view it was greeted with rousing cheers from 
all of us. 

After being introduced all around to the proprie- 
tor, we were given our rooms, and unpacking our 
baggage we soon changed our civilization clothes for 
camping costume, and commenced to "git our lines 
and reels together." By this time dinner was an- 

64 



THE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

nounced, to which all of us did ample justice. There 
has recently been a law passed, in Canada forbidding 
visitors to fish in Canadian waters unless a permit 
has been obtained from the government at an expense 
of ten dollars. Members of the club, however, are 
exempt from this law, and availing themselves of the 
opportunity several of our party visited Spider River 
and returned late in the afternoon with some fine 
trout, one of them weighing as high as three pounds. 

The morning of the next day was spent in getting 
ready for the start ; each of our six guides stored our 
luggage in his pack, and we found that many of us 
had brought about twice as much as the guides could 
carry, which made it necessary to leave part of our 
things at the club house. 

By two thirty we were ready to start,- and we lined 
up to have our nhotograph taken. Several of us had 
large sombreros made of straw, with long gaudy rib- 
bons wound around them. Some were dressed in 
Khaki cloth suits and others in golf suits and sweat- 
ers. Taken altogether we were quite a rough lot of 
fellows. 

At the word "march,'^ we started off in single file, 
headed for Arnold Pond camps, a distance of about 
eight miles from the club house. The trail was not 

65 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

a difficult one; it followed Spider Lake for a little 
distance and then turned oif in the direction of 
Louise mountains. These were soon reached. Up 
we climbed. The path was not rough, but it was 
steep, and those who were not accustomed to this 
kind of work were soon ready to call a halt. A drink 
of cold water at a brook near by, and a short rest, 
refreshed us quite a little. The boundary line be- 
tween Canada and Maine was soon crossed, and ahead 
in the distance I could see my partner plodding along 
with a pack on his back. This he insisted on carry- 
ing for eight miles simply for exercise, a feat which 
none of the rest of us cared to imitate. On we 
pushed, marching through the dense woods in single 
file until about four o'clock a break was seen in the 
trees ahead, and a shout from the leader announced 
that Arnold Pond was finally reached. Such a large 
party arriving at camp unexpectedly, it took the 
steward some time to prepare supper, but we went 
fishing for a couple of hours and here we caught our 
first trout in Maine. Supper was served about eight 
o'clock, and it seemed as if we never would get 
enough to eat; what was left wouldn't make a meal 
for a larged sized trout. Before turning in for the 
night we paddled around the pond, visiting a private 

66 




Beaver House. Ed. Grant's Camp. Page 73. 




To All Beavers: "You must not build your dams on my land. 
Per Order Ed. Grant. Page 73. 



TEE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

camp near by, where we received a royal welcome, 
until about nine-thirty we were glad to say "good- 
night" and turn in to our beds of fir boughs. It 
happened that eight of us were obliged to double up 
in one camp, and it certainly was a "full house'' with 
"eight-up" at four-thirty the next morning, roused 
out of our peaceful slumbers by one of our enthusi- 
astic members who wanted to go fishing. He went, 
but the rest of us went to asleep again until the horn 
announced that breakfast was ready, and we certainly 
did eat fried trout and bacon that morning. 

Breakfast being finished about eight-thirty, we 
packed up our baggage and started on again, heading 
for a farm house owned by a man named Cameron. 
The house is built exactly on the border line between 
Maine and Canada, one-half being in Maine, the 
other in Canada. This farm we reached in about 
half an hour. Branching off we struck into the 
burnt clearing in the direction of Massachusetts Bog. 
Our party broke up into twos, and my partner and I 
striking up a lively gait were the first to arrive at the 
Bog. Massachusetts Bog is a stretch of water about 
two miles long and not over 150 feet wide at any 
part. It flows along in a sluggish current hardly 
perceptible. The depth is about five to six feet deep 

67 



CAMP FIBES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

with a bottom entirely of mud. Along its banks 
many alders and stunted bushes grow, making good 
hiding places for the many trout that swarm in the 
waters of the bog. It is a great place for deer to 
come and feed, and the deep foot-prints in the mud 
show where deer and occasionally moose have been 
cooling themselves in the shallow water. Taking 
one of the boats at the landing our guide paddled us 
up the crooked stream, and for two miles we fished. 
Casting our flies, we had a rise at every cast, catching 
some large trout and some small ones. The flies 
used on this trip were mostly Parmachenee Bell, 
Silver Doctor and Montreal. This cast proved good 
on all occasions and was our favorite throughout the 
trip. Arriving at the end of the bog our guide pad- 
dled back with an extra boat to bring the rest of our 
party across, and we decided to wait for him. The 
rain commenced to come down about this time, and 
wishing to get under shelter my partner and I walked 
ahead about half a mile to a ^lean-to" erected for 
the use of sportsmen. There the rest of the party 
joined us about noon-time. This was the place for 
us to eat lunch, and our guides commenced at once 
to cook the trout we had captured at the Bog. The 
fried trout we ate with bacon and crackers. 

68 



TEE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

Heavy black clouds overhead warned us that rain 
would soon come down in good earnest, so gathering 
our traps together we started again, headed for big 
North West Pond, our next resting place. The trail 
was not rough, but the air was moist and muggy, and 
even though we shed our outside garments, we found 
ourselves soaked through with perspiration when we 
arrived at the Big North West. 

Once more we dipped our paddles in the water, 
and camp was no sooner reached than it commenced 
to rain hard. The water came down in bucketfuls 
and we were obliged to stay in doors and play cards 
until supper time, after which the rain let up a little 
and we were able to fish again, and such fishing was 
never seen before. Hundreds of trout swarm in the 
waters of Big North West Pond, and they are cer- 
tainly the finest eating trout the writer has ever had. 

The scenery at Big North West Pond is not so 
grand as at other ponds on the Preserve, but the lo- 
cation, its size, and unsurpassed fishing, make it a 
very desirable camping place. Near the camp is a 
spring of clear, cold water, noted for its freshness 
and very low temperature. Rarely, if ever, during 
the summer does its temperature go above 38 de- 
grees, and when poured in a tumbler large drops of 

69 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

moisture form on the outside, giving one a drink as 
cold as ice water. Several cabins at this pond gave 
us a chance to divide up, and four of us took the 
camp nearest the shore of the pond. This cabin we 
found was not absolutely watertight, and several 
drops leaked in before morning. It still continued 
to rain, and to make it still more wet a thunder 
shower came up during the night, and sometimes it 
was impossible to tell which was louder, the 
thunder or the nasal solo by one of our sleeping com- 
panions. Morning came at last, announced by the 
symphony of mosquitoes in our cabin, and to rid our- 
selves of their terrible stings we roused ourselves, and 
looking out of the window saw nothing but rain, rain, 
rain. One can^t have pleasant weather all of the 
time in camp, so we made up our minds to make the 
best of it. After breakfast some of us went to Grant 
Pond, near by, bringing back trout that were larger 
than at North West, but not as good eating. Late in 
the afternoon a break in the clouds gave us a chance 
to fish, and we had no sooner dipped our paddles in 
the water when a war whoop was heard at the Massa- 
chusetts Bog trail and the mail carrier appeared in 
view with one of our party who had been unable to 
start on the thirteenth. This addition to our party 

70 



TEE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

was a great joy to all of us, and after receiving him 
with open arms the mail was distributed, and with 
newspapers and letters the time passed rapidly until, 
before we realized it, the horn announced that supper 
was ready. Early the next morning we were aroused 
by the guides, who were anxious to make an early 
start, but before leaving for Big Island Pond (the 
most brilliant gem in the dazzling Tiara of the 
Megantic Preserve, as one of the party called it) we 
arranged ourselves in front of the camp and had our 
photographs taken. After a very large breakfast we 
quickly packed up our belongings and started at once 
for Grant Pond, which was a short walk of only 
fifteen minutes. Here we used the boats at the land- 
ing to transport us across the pond to the trail at the 
other end. Silence reigned as we paddled our boats. 
The downpour of rain which followed us incessantly 
had somewhat dampened our ardor, but we were be- 
coming hardened to it by this time, and although the 
tramp from Grant to Big Island Pond was a wet one, 
there was not a murmur from any of us. 

Our arrival at Big Island Pond was a cause for 
rejoicing to all of us. Tired, wet and hungry, we 
gladly threw our heavy packs into the boats, and with 
the guides at oars the two and a half miles of water 

71 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

to the club camps was soon covered, and it didn't 
take "US long to settle ourselves comfortably for the re- 
mainder of our stay at the Preserve. It would not 
be easy to exaggerate the scenic splendor of this beau- 
tiful pond. The camps, situated as they are on an 
open spot on one of the mountain sides, overlook the 
whole pond, which is completely surrounded by tow- 
ering mountains, covered with thick spruce and ever- 
green trees as far as the eye can see. An excellent 
table and clean camps help to make this one of the 
most desirable locations on the Preserve. 

We certainly retired early, as we all felt the need 
of rest, but it seemed hardly a minute before the loud 
blowing of a horn roused us to the realization that 
breakfast was ready, and looking out of our camp 
we found that at last the storm had left us, and the 
blue water spread out before us was sparkling under 
the dazzling rays of the rising sun. This was a 
glorious day for a visit to the famous Ed. Grant's 
camps, and several of our party wishing to see the 
well-known Beaver Pond gathered together fishing 
rods, cameras and sweaters, and taking along a couple 
of guides to show us the way, we started in single 
file, plunging at once into the dense woods that the 
trail led us into. Huge trees lined the path on all 

72 



THE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

sides, occasionally nature would reveal itself in the 
note of some stray bird calling to its mate from 
some distant tree-top, or the scampering of a squirrel 
over the dry leaves; climbing to the branch of some 
tree he would sit, chattering at us as we passed harm- 
lessly by. For three miles or more we tramped 
amidst the silence of the woods, breathing in the ex- 
hilarating ozone which freshened our lungs, making 
us feel buoyant and happy. Beaver Pond is not 
large, but on its wild and woody shore Ed. Grant has 
built a collection of camps which are famous all over 
Maine for an ideal place in which to have a summer's 
outing. At the upper end of this pond beavers have 
erected their houses made of sticks and small logs, 
cut by them and piled one upon another in reckless 
confusion. These houses have raised the level of the 
pond and flooded some of Grant's land, and in the 
hope of preventing other houses being built Ed. 
Grant has posted on a tree near by the following 
notice : 
"Mr. Beaver: 

"You must not build your dams on my land. 

Per order, 

"Ed. Grant." 

After visiting the houses and dams of the beavers 
73 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

we were served with an excellent dinner, and finish- 
ing off with some of his best cigars we bade "good 
bye" to Grant's camp and returned very well pleased 
with our visit. 

My partner and I, anxious for hardships out of 
the ordinary routine of camp life, examined the map 
and laid out a trip of forty miles or more that we 
thought would ta^e about two days of hard tramping 
to cover. The country through which we were go- 
ing was not an easy one to traverse, the guides called 
it a howling wilderness, but having once made up 
our minds nothing could turn us back, so prepara- 
tions were at once made for starting. We took with 
us simply a sweater, extra pair of stockings, rifle, 
camera, fishing rods and a small supply of crackers 
and bacon. 

Unfortunately I neglected to take an extra pair of 
shoes, which caused me no end of trouble as will be 
seen later on. Our guide carried what few articles 
we had, and leaving camp the next morning about 
ten we rowed across Big Island Pond to the Chain of 
Ponds trail. Here we commenced a tramp of eight 
miles before water would again be reached. At first 
we followed the Club trail, and near Eock Pond a 
most interesting photograph was taken of a spruce 

74 




A' Natural Curiosity. Megantic Preserve, Page 75. 




Two'Miles of Corduroy Road. Megantic Preserve. Page_8o. 



TEE MEOANTIC PRESERVE. 

tree that had grown from the ground a distance of 
five feet to the top of a large boulder, where it had 
again taken root and continued up into a large tree. 
We soon left the trail and branched off into the 
"tote" road, which became harder walking. Several 
streams made this road its river bed during the sum- 
mer, and we were compelled to make our way as best 
we could along its steep banks. The sun shone 
through a cloudless sky, and we found it pretty hot 
wherever open places in the road were crossed, but 
we continued on at a rapid gait as we had a long dis- 
tance to travel before nightfall. About twelve o'clock 
we came upon a beautiful brook flowing across the 
path under a log bridge. This gave us a good chance 
to cook lunch, which we did, devouring huge quanti- 
ties of bacon and dry crackers. By one o'clock we 
found ourselves rested and once more on the move. 
The surrounding country now became more open, 
with high precipices of rock and towering mountains 
in the distance surrounding us on all sides. The 
path itself seemed to follow the irregularities of the 
landscape, and enormous rocks, fallen trees and 
washed out gullies presented themselves before us in 
endless numbers. Such rough climbing as this soon 
had its effect on my feet, and the heavy walking boots 

76 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

I was wearing (with a pound of hob nails in the 
soles) began to hurt my feet. The heavy soles and 
thick stockings made my feet burn, so removing my 
stockings altogether I went barefoot in the shoes, 
which helped out quite a little. Indian Stream was 
soon reached, hundreds of deer tracks were printed in 
its clay bank, and deep pools in the stream tempted 
us to stop and fish, but we hastened on, and by three- 
thirty Long Pond was reached, where the change 
from walking to rowing was gladly welcomed. As 
we pulled out from behind a point of land into the 
lake, a sweep of wind from three lakes struck us dead 
ahead, and it was all we could do to move an inch 
against the roaring gale and the avalanche of water 
that fled before it. But Philip, our guide, was strong 
and our boat was light, so after much hard work and 
some kicking the club camp on the island was reached 
and a council of war was held. 

"Should we spend the night at the camp or pro- 
ceed down the lakes and strike in five or six miles 
towards Dead Eiver that night?" The steward ad- 
vised strongly against it, in fact he said we had better 
go right back to Big Island Pond the way we came, 
but that of course was out of the question. Finding, 
however, that not much time would be gained by go- 

76 



TEE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

ing ahead at once^ and feeling almost starved to 
death, we decided to remain over night at the camp, 
a wise decision, but one that I regretted afterwards. 
Of all the lakes and ponds in the Preserve Long 
Pond is the most beautiful, situated amidst towering 
mountains on all sides, the rugged grandeur of the 
scenery is beyond description, and the camera en- 
thusiast or the artist's brush alone can picture it. 
Far off in the direction of Eustis, Mt. Bigelow can 
be seen, and as one gazes at it memories call one back 
to the time when Benedict Arnold and his brave band 
of followers travelled over this very pond on their 
famous but fruitless conquest of Quebec. 

Unfortunately, a forest fire has swept over quite a 
district above Long Pond, and the trees being de- 
stroyed it gives a barrenness to part of the landscape 
that is very wild indeed. In one place a whole moun- 
tain of broken rock piled in endless confusion makes 
a natural haunt for the brown bears which are found 
there during all seasons of the year. Our guide 
showed us one particularly high precipice where a 
deer, brought to bay by dogs, jumped into the chasm 
beneath and was smashed to atoms on the sharp rocks, 
not a piece the size of a pound could be found. The 
remainder of the afternoon was occupied in swim- 

77 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

ming and fishing in Bear Stream, and glad we were 
to turn into our beds shortly after, supper time. By 
seven o'clock the next morning we were once more on 
the lake, headed for the lower end, where we were 
to take up the trail again. Long Pond had been 
raised in level about five feet in readiness for sending 
a large boom of logs down to the Dead Eiver, and we 
found that what is usually a narrow passage way was 
now three or four hundred yards wide, but five good 
miles of rowing brought us to the end of the pond 
and we began our homeward tramp. The steward 
kindly loaned me a pair of sneakers to finish the 
journey vrith. They happened to be size 10, but 
stuffing them with grass to keep them on, I started 
bravely on the nine mile walk to Alder Farm, our 
first resting place. We followed the buckboard road 
and soon came upon Dead Eiver, noted for its slow, 
sluggish current. 

For two miles we followed its crooked course, some- 
times along its pebbly shore, and then the path would 
lead us up its steep bank, where a view of the sur- 
rounding country could be seen. A couple of hours 
of this kind of walking brought us to the junction of 
Dead Eiver and Alder Stream, and it being rather 
hot we decided that a good swim would refresh us a 

78 



TEE MEGANTIC PRESERVE. 

bit. The temperature of Alder Stream was not 
warm, in fact it might be called ice water, but it was 
great sport swimming against its swift current, and 
we felt much refreshed as we started on again. Our 
hope had been to reach Alder Stream farm by noon, 
but twelve o'clock came and no farm had been seen, 
so a lialt was called and lunch was served by our 
faithful guide. To say my feet ached from wearing 
sneakers over such a country as we were travelling 
was putting it mildly, but a fresh supply of grass 
helped matters a little, and after a rest of an hour 
we started on again. By one-thirty Alder farm was 
reached, and the proprietor thought he saw some 
business in sight in the way of serving us some din- 
ner, but we had already lunched, and finding we had 
walked thirteen miles from Chain of Ponds (instead 
of nine as the map had it), and that ahead of us 
were nine miles more of the hardest road yet, we 
stopped for a drink of water only and commenced at 
once to climb the mountain that the trail led us into. 
On we tramped, and as we advanced the road be- 
came worse and worse, huge rocks, boulders and trees 
were strewn recklessly in the pathway. How a buck- 
board ever passed over such a road is a mystery. 
Reaching the top of the mountain we struck a cordu- 

79 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

roy road^ and for two solid miles we were obliged 
to travel over this rough road, the sneakers nearly 
killing my feet, I was obliged to go bare foot in my 
heavy shoes again. At this gait we were able to go 
only about 2i^ miles an hour, and it seemed as if we 
would never reach camp, but by six-thirty an opening 
was seen through the trees, and into camp we 
stumbled, tired, hungry, and covered with mud. We 
had gone exactly forty miles since starting. 

To lie around camp for the next few days was cer- 
tainly a luxury ; in fact it was necessary on my part, 
as my feet were in such condition that walking was 
quite painful. But who could object to remaining 
in such a beautiful place as Big Island Pond? The 
days passed only too quickly; part of the time we 
fished in L Pond, near by, bringing back strings of 
large sized trout and salmon, then we visited Eock 
Pond, where a collection of logging camps gave us a 
chance to obtain several fine photographs of where 
the lumbermen live in the winter. At one of these 
camps a large water-cart was standing in the "tote" 
road. This car is used in winter time for sprinkling 
water on the deep snow, forming a crust of ice, which 
prevents the horses from sinking in too deeply. 
Three of us mounted on this cart and as "monarchs 
80 



THE MEG AN TIC PRESERVE. 

of all we survey/' we had our photographs taken. 

Four days after our long tramp the mail carrier 
brought a telegram for one of our party, calling him 
to Boston. This was a signal for a general breaking 
up, so packing together our few belongings we com- 
menced our homeward march, some by the shortest 
possible route, while others, including my partner 
and I, unable to resist the temptation to see Big 
North West Pond again, made a longer journey of it 
and spent one more night at this sportsman's para- 
dise. 

This was the last time we would be able to eat trout 
on the trip, so it was not very early when we left 
the supper table. The distance from Big North 
West Pond to the Club House we covered in the next 
day, a feat which would have seemed impossible on 
our arrival in the Preserve, but we had become hard- 
ened to tramping and the distance seemed too short. 
Once back at the club house it was only a question of 
hours before our dress suit cases were packed, our 
civilization clothes on, and dressed in white collars, 
stiff shirts and patent leather shoes, we found our- 
selves rapidly approaching the village of Megantic. 
If it is ever your good fortune to visit the Megantic 
Preserve, take the advice of one who knows and don't 
81 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

spend the night at Megantic. It may be all right 
in the winter time^ but to sleep on a feather bed in 
the summer time was something that none of us 
dared to attempt, and it was long after twelve before 
we finally fell asleep on our resting places of, beds 
without mattresses, and hard sofas. Our breakfast 
was a wretched one, and glad we were when the Can- 
adian Pacific Express drew us out of the station and 
homeward bound. 

One by one our party became smaller as we neared 
Boston, and by the time the train pulled into the 
Union station there were only six of our party left to 
represent the lucky thirteen who had visited the Me- 
gantic Preserve. 



82 




We Are Monarchs of All we Survey. Page 8i. 




A View of L Pond. Megantic Preserve. Page 80. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

A Three Hundred Mile Canoe Trip Througfh 
Maine and New Brunswick. 

IF all guide books told the truth one would be repaid 
for the trouble of reading them, but unfortu- 
nately this is not so, and one must take a canoe trip 
to find that experience is the best teacher. On this 
Allagash and St. Johns river trip we had with us a 
small guide-book which gave correctly the names of 
ponds and lakes on the map, but the rest was all 
guess work. In one place it stated that the distance 
between two places was forty miles and could be 
paddled in one day. We found it nearly sixty and 
two days of the hardest kind of paddling, but our 
book told us to expect a rough trip, and we prepared 
ourselves accordingly, taking with us really too few 
articles, for after the third day I was without stock- 
ings, or shirt, and my shoes were torn to pieces by 
the sharp rocks in the river bed. It was my plan to 
take some fellow with me, but they all excused them- 
selves by saying it was too much like work. Eealizing 

83 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

that I might find myself alone with only a guide to 
keep me company through the Maine wilderness, it 
occurred to me three days before starting that my 
brother might like this trip, so calling on him the 
next day, I persuaded him to accompany me. It is 
better to secure all your provisions in Boston, as the 
prices at Kineo are much higher. We took with us 
20 lbs. flour, 17 lbs. Indian meal, 10 lbs. sugar, 3 
pkgs. buckwheat flour, 3 lbs. baking powder, 2 lbs. 
prunes, 1 lb. evap. apples, 2 pkgs. oatmeal, 12 cans 
beans, 2 lbs. sweet chocolate, 3 doz. shredded wheat, 
5 lbs. lard, 2 lbs. hard crackers, 9 lbs. coffee, 6 cans 
eond. cream, 2 cans chicken, 2 cans beef, 2 bottles 
ketchup, 2 galls, maple syrup. Then we bought at 
Kineo 5 lbs. butter, 15 lbs. onions, 4 doz. eggs, 1 
bushel potatoes. 

The potatoes cost $2.00 a bushel, when we could 
have bought them in Boston for 75 cents. This sup- 
ply of food proved too small, for we ate up everything 
except a little sweet chocolate, some Indian meal and 
a half dozen onions. This trip being made in closed 
season we took with us simply a 22 rifle, a 32 pocket 
rifle and a revolver. These we considered sufficient 
to strike terror into the heart of the fiercest bear or 
wild cat that roams the Maine wilderness. It was 
84 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

decided to go by way of Bangor, and we had arranged 
weeks ahead for our guide, Potter, to meet us at 
Greenville Junction with the canoes, but on the ar- 
rival of the train there was no guide to greet us, 
much to our disappointment. It was quite impos- 
sible to proceed without the guide, so our baggage 
was sent to the Moosehead Inn and a search was at 
once made for the missing Potter, and we found him 
buying an axe in the drug store. At one of the sta- 
tions near Bangor we met a friend on his way into 
the woods, who eagerly accepted our invitation to 
join us, so securing a canoe and a guide named Bow- 
ley, they supplied themselves with the necessary out- 
fit for the expedition, and by eight-thirty the next 
morning we were steaming across the lake and rapid- 
ly approaching N". E. Carry. Moosehead Lake is 
about forty miles long and situated among high 
mountains. Storms from the northwest sometimes 
sweep this lake from end to end, but the morning we 
crossed there was hardly a ripple, and the blazing sun 
shone upon its glittering surface with an intense 
heat. At eleven, N. E. Carry was reached, where we 
left the steamer with our canoes, which the guides 
loaded on a truck to be dragged a short distance and 
then transferred to a wagon. 

85 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

At the Carry is a small hotel, where we had lunch. 
Food being scarce in that part of the country the 
proprietor puts his guests on ration diet ; but we did 
justice to everything on the verbal menu, and when 
the last course was reached we heard the wagon 
rumbling heavily over the rough Carry on its way to 
the Penobscot (Eocky Eiver), some two miles dis- 
tant. 

Lunch over we shouldered the remaining baggage 
and started along on foot after the wagon. The road 
was at first open, but it soon buried itself in the dense 
woods, and I beagn to feel exhilarated by the sight 
and smell of the fir and spruce trees that surrounded 
us on all sides. The carry was not long, but the ex- 
cessive heat made walking uncomfortable, and we 
were glad when the Penobscot Eiver was sighted in 
the distance. Our canoes had been left at the river, 
and we soon had them floating, impatient to be off, 
but our guides were behind us, possibly some half 
mile, and we waited for them to superintend the load- 
ing of the canoes. It was decided that our guide 
should go alone in his canoe with part of our lug- 
gage. The other guide took our friend in his canoe, 
while my brother and I went in the third canoe, and 
in single file we pushed out into the stream. What 
86 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

had fate in store for us before half of the journey 
was over? Time alone could tell. It was hot on 
the river that afternoon. The sun shone fiercely 
upon us, and we shed our jackets and shirts until the 
bare skin was reached. About two miles be- 
low North East Carry, Lobster Stream en- 
ters on the right. It was a familiar place 
to me, having made a camping expedition in 
'94: to Lobster Lake. It was decided not to 
visit the lake, so we paddled rapidly by through the 
comparatively dead water. Below Lobster Lake the 
river expanded to about thirty rods, and many fresh 
deer tracks were seen, some of them long slashes, 
where they had slid on the steep, clayey bank. About 
five miles of paddling and we reached the "Moosehorn 
dead water,^' named from a stream which enters 
there, and if the river had been high when we reached 
the falls our journey might have ended differently. 
The guide was ahead when the first quick water was 
reached. I saw him pick out the channel and then 
his canoe, catching the force of the rapids, shot ahead 
and I was left to find my way alone. All went well 
until the fatal "Fox Hole" was reached, and then 
the unexpected happened. I was standing in the 
stern at the time, using the 10-foot pole to keep the 

87 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

canoe in the channel, when suddenly above the roar 
of the falls I heard my brother in the bow shout, 
"There's a rock dead ahead," and quickly jabbing my 
pole forward into the roaring water, I tried to snub 
the canoe up short, but instead of breaking into 
pieces, as I expected, it slid up high and dry and com- 
menced to roll over. In a critical moment one's 
mind thinks quickly, for in about two seconds I had 
jumped overboard, and with all the strength I could 
command pulled the canoe off and fell in again 
as it went over the falls. Our canoe was uninjured, 
but the guide ran his canoe on a rock and punched a 
hole through the bottom; this was repaired with 
white lead and a bit of canvas. As we sped along 
we startled large numbers of Kingfishers, which flew 
screaming around us. The Indians call them 
"Skuscumousuck." They made the shores echo with 
their loud cries. Our plan was to camp that night as 
near Chesuncook Lake as possible, but near Eagmuff 
Stream (pay tay week took), the guides decided we 
had better stop at Joe Smith's camp. This was not 
to our liking, but as time would be saved in the 
morning, it was decided to do so. The proprietor 
offered us one small and decidedly hot room, which 
I refused to accept. What is the fun in going into 

88 



1 

1 / 


■n 




\^3 






I 


•>'^ IBS* ''^^"■wB?^ 




' M 




'.....t^ffl 




^ 





MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

the woods and putting up in a small, stuffy house, 
hotter than a tenement in a cit}^? I can't see any 
sense in it, but the guides did, for while we slept on 
our sweet smelling bed of fir boughs in a tent outside, 
they preferred the feather bed and a hot house ! We 
awoke the next day at the early hour of five o'clock 
and found it misting. As we had a long day's jour- 
ney ahead of us we quickly hurried through break- 
fast, and by the time we had finished the guides had 
our canoes loaded and ready to be off. It was a dark 
day, and the heavy mist soon turned into a pouring 
rain, wetting us to the skin. Some twelve miles be- 
low Joe Smith's we reached Pine Stream (Mkazaook- 
took), flowing in on the left. One can go by this 
route to Caribou Lake, and a wilder trip it is hard 
to find. A series of falls called "Eocky Kips," at 
Pine Stream, were run easily with a paddle. Here 
the weather cleared up a bit and we had our first 
sight of Mt. Katahdin rising sharp and defined to the 
very tops of the clouds. I noticed after leaving Pine 
Stream some fine specimens of White Pines along 
the shore. These trees are nearly extinct in Maine, 
having been cut out by the lumbermen; they call 
them Kouchas trees, which I think is an Indian 
name. 

89 



OAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Below Pine Stream the river broadened and the 
spruce trees gave way to a thick growth of birch and 
alders^ but these soon thinned ont^ and the low river 
banks^ covered with long, waiving grass, told us that 
Chesuncook Lake was near, and rounding a point of 
land at the mouth, the broad expanse of this beautiful 
lake spread out before us. 

Crossing the upper end of the lake over a sand 
bar, we proceeded a short distance up the TJmba- 
zookskus Stream before a suitable landing place was 
discovered some half mile below the Camcongomoc 
Stream. "Umbazookskus" means ''much meadow 
river." We found it meadowy enough, and for six 
miles dead water. It is a rare place for moose and 
deer, which come to feed in the meadows overgrown 
with sedges, blue flag and wool grass, some three 
feet high. This stream is called the most crooked in 
Maine, and I believe it, for the guides' canoe, some 
fifteen feet ahead, would often disappear out of sight, 
when suddenly a canoe would be seen approaching 
us with only a tuft of grass to intervene, and looking 
closer we would find it was our guide. Six miles of 
snake like turnings and the stream contracted to a 
mere brook, narrow and swift, so resorting to the 
poles we pushed our canoes about a mile further to 

90 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

the Carry, where we landed to unload the canoes. 
Here our party separated, one of us taking the trail 
to a log hut some three miles distant to obtain a 
sledge to tote our baggage to Mud Pond, while the 
rest of us were dragging the canoes four miles up to 
Umbazookskus Lake. It is still a question whether 
it is harder to cross Mud Pond Carry on foot, or drag 
a canoe up the Umbazookskus. It was my fate to do 
the latter, and it certainly was not easy, but the tale 
our friend told when next we saw him would do 
credit to La Salle or De Soto. The trail at first was 
solid ground and easy walking, but soon he found 
himself surrounded by a dismal swamp, and every 
footstep plunged him deeper in the mud and water. 
The trail was quickly lost and he blindly followed 
every parting of the sedge or bushes. 

How long he would have wandered in this laby- 
rinth it is impossible to tell, but fate was kind to 
him and he was rescued merely by a chance, for after 
having wandered for about an hour, he came upon 
a sign nailed to a tree, obliterated, it is true, but 
showing that the trail had two directions. Which 
one should he take? A toss of a penny would have 
told him. Hesitating for a moment he took the left 
hand turning, and continuing on for nearly an hour 

91 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

he was about to retrace his steps, when an opening 
was seen in the forest, and breaking through the 
dense undergrowth, came upon a house, which proved 
to be the right one. He said the Carry was beyond 
description, but if you wish to see a sample of it, 
take one-half Mud Pond and saturate it thoroughly 
with three parts each of Umbazooskus Stream and 
Apmoojenegamook Lake, then drive a lot of musk- 
rats through to do the fencing. 

While our friend was wading through the for- 
est, we were pushing and dragging the canoes up the 
brook. It is said that steamers out West run on 
dew. Our canoes ran on the perspiration that 
streamed off our faces. But in spite of the violent 
exercise and the fact we were stuck once or twice, 
we enjoyed ourselves. It was all up-hill work, as 
we were on West Branch water flowing out of Umba- 
zookskus Lake, which is on the boundary line claimed 
by Great Britain as the northeastern boundary of the 
United States settled by the Ashburton treaty. This 
was the ^^ighlands" dividing the waters of the Pe- 
nobscot from those of the St. Johns, as well as the 
St. Lawrence rivers. By four-thirty Umbazookskus 
Lake was reached. Although a beautiful lake in 
sunshine, the storm which had descended again gave 
92 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWtCK. 

to it a wild and desolate appearance. Black clouds 
were rolling over the mountains, driving the waves 
before them in angry billows. The entrance was 
over a sand bar, reaching far out into the lake, and 
the roar of the surf reached us long before the lake 
came in sight. I was in doubt whether it would be 
safe to cross in such a sea, but we were ready for all 
dangers, and wading out beyond the breakers, we 
jumped into the canoes, and after a short but ex- 
ceedingly hard paddle, arrived on the other side, 
soaking wet and chilled through. Joining our friend 
at the camp, we had a three hours' wait for the 
sledge, so it was nearly nine o'clock before Mud Pond 
was reached, a distance of only about three miles. 
We were tired and exceedingly hungry, not having 
eaten since eleven-thirty; so, after paying the driver 
$5.00 each for the canoes and getting our luggage to- 
gether, we pitched camp at once, instead of cross- 
ing the pond to the regular camping place. It was 
very cold in camp that night, and we built a large, 
roaring fire in front of the camp. It is surprising 
with what impunity one can sleep on a hard bed of 
fir boughs, not caring for the cold night air. I lay 
awake awhile watching the sparks fly upward in end- 
less crowds. They looked like serpents flying into 

93 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

the darkness. The guides called us the next day at 
five-thirty. A heavy fog hung over land and water. 
Everything that had been left outside the tents 
were soaked through as if it had been raining. 

We were pretty hungry at breakfast and re- 
gretted not having some trout; but a large sup- 
ply of oatmeal, bacon, corn bread, buckwheat 
cakes, fried potatoes and coffee satisfied our 
hunger, and we felt much refreshed after our night's 
rest. It took some time to get the kitchen articles 
sorted out after the mix-up on the Carry, so it was 
eight o'clock before we dipped our paddles in the 
waters of Mud Pond, which was now plainly visible, 
the rising sun having burnt off the mist. Near the 
centre of the pond is a small island which is rarely, 
if ever, without two or three deer, or a moose feed- 
ing on the pads which grow near its shores, and as 
we had seen only 26 deer and no moose since leav- 
ing N. E. Carry, we eagerly scanned its shores, and 
were not disappointed, for within a few rods was 
a large cow moose feeding on the pads. Steering 
towards shore so as to head her off, we paddled for 
all we were worth to within about fifty feet, when 
she stopped feeding and looked at us, turned slowly 
around and started on the jump for the shore, 
94 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

splashing the water about like a cyclone, and in 
two minutes disappeared into the woods. It was 
quite difficult crossing Mud Pond, owing to the shal- 
low water and the thick growth of cow pads and 
rushes that were everywhere. The outlet is another 
small brook flowing through a sluice-way dam, and 
we found it slow and difficult work pushing the ca- 
noes down stream, owing to the extremely low water, 
but two hours of wading and dragging brought us 
to Chamberlin Lake, where we headed our canoe for 
the Allagash. Chamberlin Lake is eighteen miles 
long and narrow, making a perfect funnel for the 
wind, which blows almost continually over it, but 
the day we crossed only a light breeze ruffled its sur- 
face and that favored us. Not being familiar with 
Chamberlin, my brother and I, who were ahead, 
skirted along the left shore for about nine miles, 
then examining the map, found the outlet about 
half way down on the right hand shore, and as it 
was impossible to see any outlet from where we were, 
we paddled directly across, in spite of the high waves 
which were now rising. It is remarkable how diffi- 
cult these outlets are to discover. There is nothing 
to show you the way, but at some hidden point the 
lake trickles out through the unbroken forest as it 
95 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

would through a sponge. Reaching the dam, we 
waited an hour for the guides, passing the time in 
carrying the canoes on our shoulders to deep water 
below the dam. There are two dams at Chamberlin, 
about five hundred yards apart, and the pitch of 
the river between them is quite steep, making the 
water exceedinglv swift and it was also much deeper, 
so that at times it was impossible to find the bottom 
with the ten-foot pole. 

The second dam was an easy carry, and taking 
the canoes to dead water below, we once more sped 
on and soon reached Eagle Lake, three miles below. 
It was then two o'clock and we had not eaten since 
six in the morning, so an hour's stop was made on 
a beautiful sand beach at the left of the inlet ; there 
we had a good swim and a hearty meal, which much 
refreshed us. We had now acquired the right swing 
to get the full force of our stroke, and paddling 36 
strokes to the minute^ our canoes forged rapidly 
across Eagle Lake. Some people think Eagle the 
most beautiful of these chain of lakes, ^ and it is 
really hard to choose, but I prefer TJmsaskis Lake, 
as it is much wilder and entirely shut in by moun- 
tains. Nothing unusual occurred during our trip 
across Eagle; one or two buck were seen swimming 

96 




Our Camp on the Penobscot River. Page 9/ . 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

to an island, but they were a long ways off. A stop 
was made at Soper Brook for a supply of cold water; 
this was near the outlet, and after passing Russell 
Brook on the left, we reached Round Pond number 
one, sometimes known as the "Thoroughfare," which 
is a famous place for moose and deer. We counted 
forty-five deer and nine moose in passing through 
the Thoroughfare, and we paddled within twenty- 
five feet of two moose in the water, a cow and bull. 
They looked like frightened rabbits with their long 
ears and half inquisitive looks. True denizens of 
the forest, wild and grotesque they looked standing 
in the water and gazing stupidly at us until realiz- 
ing there might be trouble around they made for the 
shore with a tremendous splashing of water. We 
reached Churchill Lake by five, and the guides know- 
ing of a good camping ground on the left, we at 
once landed there on the pebbly beach and the canoes 
were unloaded. The camp-ground was in the midst 
of white birch trees on a little rise of land back from 
the shore about a hundred yards. Framework had 
been erected by other campers for two tents and a 
kitchen, so it was easy work pitching our tents, and 
in a short time our supper was sizzling over a hot 
fire. We were pretty well tired out that night, and 
97 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

turned in immediately after supper. The next 
day we slept until nine o'clock^ and when we awoke 
found it raining, so it was decided to spend the day 
in camp, sleeping and resting. In the afternoon the 
guide and I went fishing up Thoroughfare Brook 
about fifteen miles. In one place the brook 
was strewn with green alder trees, cut into long 
lengths by beavers and completely stripped of their 
bark. It was wet work fishing in the rain, and I 
was glad to return to camp and dry off before a 
cheerful camp fire. During the night our friend 
was taken sick with a bad attack of indigestion, 
caused by eating too much fried bacon and raw 
onions, and there was doubt about his being able 
to continue on, but the storm had left us during the 
night and the rising sun gave him new courage, and 
we decided to break camp, going as far as Umsaskis 
Lake and camp there. A strong west wind blew us 
rapidly across Churchill, and we soon reached the 
outlet, which was wide at first, but quickly narrowed 
itself to a river. Two miles down stream we reached 
"Chase's Carry." The canoes were not unloaded, 
but the guides ran them over the falls while we 
walked around, three miles below to a large pool. 
It was our first long walk since leaving Mud Pond. 

98 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

On the way we discovered specimens of Ked Osier 
(Cormus Stolomfera), whose bark was once used by 
Indians for tobacco. As we ate our hurried lunch 
we could hear the roar of the first falls, and I felt 
that a hard run was ahead of us; in fact, it proved 
the hardest of the trip. The incline of the river- 
bed was at a sharp angle, and the water rushed with 
great force over the large rocks that were every- 
where. It was often necessary to turn the canoe at 
right angles to the river to follow the channel, and 
it took all one's strength to keep the canoe from 
being driven on the rocks. We chased a flock of 
ducks down the river, meeting them at every bend; 
they rushed over the top of the water like a whirl- 
wind, either up or down stream and in the most vio- 
lent rapids. At five we entered Umsaskis Lake in 
the teeth of a gale, but our camp was only a short 
distance away, and it was soon reached. A log cabin 
built by some sportsmen awaited our coming. Si- 
lent and alone it stands buried among the fir and 
spruce trees, of which every decaying particle of 
itself was once a member. Pulling the canoes up 
on the beach away from the waves, we took posses- 
sion. It seemed like being rescued from a desert 
island to see this camp. Here were bunks, a chair, 

L.oFC. ^^ 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

a table and a stove! Outside grew delicious rasp- 
berries, which were added to our menu. 

After supper the guide suggested chasing moose. 
It was a still night and one most suited for the pur- 
pose. The full moon was rising from behind a 
mountain, and its mellow rays lit up the water with 
a dim lustre. The lofty tops of spruce trees were 
outlined against the sky like the spires of a city, and 
the beauty of the scene as the moon rose over the 
forest is impossible to describe. Silently we slipped 
through the water, the guide in the bow, I in the 
stern. All was still around us, then from far over 
the lake came the voice of a loon, loud and distinct, 
a wild, weird sound like the despairing cry of some 
departed spirit; singularly human it sounded as it 
came across the water, hoo-hoo-o-o-o-o. We then 
headed towards a mud "logan,^' passed in the after- 
noon, and Potter, raising a birch-bark horn to his 
mouth, imitated the call of a moose. A wooing love 
note it was, ugh ugh oo-o-o-o-o ugh. Again he called, 
and far away in the darkness came an answer, ugh, 
ugh. "It's a bull all right," whispered Potter, and 
we had just reached the shadow of the trees on the 
shore, when we heard a heavy tramp and then a 
splash, followed by a bellow, which told us we were 
100 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

discovered, for the bull moose, which we could now 
see in the moonlight, enraged at being fooled, was 
making for the canoe at full speed. It was too dark 
to fire with any chance of success, and Potter, real- 
izing we were in a tight spot, hollered to turn round 
in our seats and paddle for our lives. How we ever 
got out of that mud I don't know. I simply remem- 
ber jabbing my paddle nearly full length into the 
mud at every stroke, but Potter's great strength got 
us out into deep water again and the moose, finding 
swimming harder than walking, turned and made 
for the shore, which he soon reached and disappeared 
into the forest. A start was made the next day by 
nine, and with regrets we left our log camp. It was 
calm at first, but in the centre of the lake 
we found quite a sea running; our canoe seemed like 
an egg shell. Quite a few deer were seen in cross- 
ing; we counted eight at one time together. Eeach- 
ing Long Lake, which is really part of Umsaskis, I 
had the good fortune to photograph an albino deer. 
It was pure white, with the exception of a few brown 
spots on the neck. Passing Chemquasabamticook 
Stream we stopped for lunch, some six miles beyond 
at the entrance to the Allagash. The river was now 
too swift and rocky to use a paddle, so laying them 
101 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

aside we used the poles, working our way over eigh- 
teen or more rapids, until four o'clock, when we 
stopped to camp. The camp site was not the driest, 
and for the first time we were attacked by the curse 
of Maine, black flies and minges (no-see-em). I 
used a fly lotion, brought with us, which kept them 
from us at a distance of about two feet, and we could 
see them flying around our heads in a perfect cloud. 
We ate a hearty meal that night, and I found it al- 
most impossible to get to sleep. I lay awake listen- 
ing to the murmur of the water as it tumbled over 
the rocks. Occasionally a night hawk would startle 
the silent woods with its sharp cry, then from far 
off in the lonely forest came the hoo-hoo of an owl. 
Once I heard a tree fall crashing in the forest, start- 
ed either by decay or by some animal rubbing against 
it. A pattering of feet on the leaves outside the 
tent and a rattling of tins at the fireplace aroused 
me to wakefulness, but it was only a hedgehog 
searching for scraps of food, and I rolled over and 
went to sleep. The next morning we ate breakfast 
sitting on a stump, around a piece of birch bark for 
a table, each holding a dipper in one hand and a 
piece of fried pork in the other, making a pass to eat 
and then thrusting our heads into the smoke to 
102 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

avoid the mosquitoes. Our stock of provisions were 
rapidly diminishing to ration diet, and a supply must 
be obtained. Our matches had been lost on some 
carry, and we became dependent upon a few I had 
in my hunting jacket. We left "Mosquito camp" 
by eight and arrived at Kound Pond in thirty min- 
utes. This was the last pond to cross, and we pad- 
dled slowly over it, wondering at the dense growth 
of trees reaching to the very water's edge. Passing 
Schedule Brook near the outlet, we entered the Al- 
lagash again, and paddling six miles further, 
reached Musquacook Stream, which flows out of the 
five Musquacook Lakes. Stopping to fish, we had 
no sooner cast our flies when along came a canoe 
with two savage looking French Canadians paddling. 
Asking about the fishing, they said it was 
better below at Five Finger brook. So, taking their 
advice, we hurried on, but the guides said we were 
"eas/' and that they had a dead moose in the woods 
and wanted to steer us off; but we caught the fish 
and the guides cooked them. Below Five Finger 
we reached three houses, and the guides called a 
halt. Their idea seemed to be when we came any- 
where near a house to go to it; but our idea was to 
keep awa}' — that's what we came into the woods for, 
103 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

But provisions must be obtained, and a fine looking 
lot of tramps we were as we approached the house, 
barefoot, unshaved, hatless, shirtless and our trous- 
ers torn, but we were received with open arms and 
invited into a feast of raspberries and cream. We 
ate all they had, and then obtaining the much- 
needed provisions, paddled on again as far &s 
AUagash Falls, where we stopped to camp. We vis- 
ited the falls after supper, and a grand sight it was 
to see the water tearing itself into foam over the 
rocks. A boom of logs had jammed in at the top, 
waiting for lumbermen to break it in the spring. 
About midnight a storm burst upon us, the wind 
blew a gale, threatening to upset the tent. Morning 
came at last, with the storm still raging. Every- 
thing was soaked through, but a damp breakfast 
over a sputtering fire braced us up, and after eight 
hard trips carrying the baggage and canoes around 
the falls, we embarked again. 

It was our intention to camp that night below thf 
junction of the St. Johns river, so we pushed dogged- 
ly ahead, and eight miles or more brought us to 
the junction of the two rivers. A brook enters 
there, called Nigs^er Brook, making a series of diffi- 
cult rapids to navigate. The river unexpectedly 
104 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

makes a sharp turn, and you suddenly find the canoe 
running sideways to the river, but by paddling hard 
you can reach the channel and shoot the falls, which 
di'op nearly three feet. The guide was ahead, and, 
looking back, he said our canoe went almost out of 
sight in the spray as we ran the falls. We shipped 
about three gallons of water, wetting everything in 
the canoe. About four we reached St. Frances plan- 
tation, a collection of a few scattered houses. We 
camped below the houses, on the side of the hill, but 
found it a cold, damp place and heavy mth mist. 
1 awoke in the night with a headache and chills, and 
in the morning was much worse. The guide placed 
me in his canoe and we pushed on toward Connors, 
the first town reached and the extreme end of the 
Canadian Pacific R. R. At Connors we landed and 
got our mail, and received our first news from home. 
We lunched beyond Connors, but I was unable to 
eat. I had evidently contracted an attack of malaria. 
Signs of civilization were seen on every side, 
houses, churches and saw mills. The river was 
filled with floating saw dust and pieces of logs, mak- 
ing it unfit for drinlc or for any kind of fish to live 
in. Fort Kent was reached by sundown, and they 
removed me to the hotel, the others camping on the 
105 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

river bank. A good night's rest and a square break- 
fast brought me around all right, and after examin- 
ing the historic Block House, we said "good-bye" to 
Fort Kent and started for Edmundston, our next 
stopping place. Passing Baker Brook we reached 
French vi lie, a small settlement, where we purchased 
some eggs at twelve cents a dozen, also some bread 
and butter. We covered the thirt3^-five miles be- 
tween Fort Kent and Edmundston by four o'clock, 
and landing the canoes below the Madawaska Eiver, 
prepared to make ourselves comfortable for the night 
at the Queen's hotel. The night's rest refreshed us, 
and by eight the next morning we were on the river, 
headed for Van Buren, our final stopping place. 

The sun came out hot, and as this was our last 
day, we did not hurry. The river was now broad 
and sluggish with few rapids. Five or six booms 
of logs were passed, completely blocking the river. 
These we had to carry over, and it was difficult and 
dangerous work. We had to climb out on the roll- 
ing logs and drag the canoes over. If a misstep had 
been made and we had slid off, the suction of the 
river would have quickly carried us under the logs. 
Our trip was now nearing an end, and watching at 
every turn of the river, I was soon rewarded with 
106 



MAINE AND NEW BRUNSWICK. 

the sight of the spires and houses of Van Buren, and 
we knew that our hardships were over. At Van 
Buren we bade "good-bye" to our faithful guides, 
who took the train for Norcross, while we left the 
next day for Frederickton, and then by boat to St. 
Johns and home by rail, where we arrived safe and 
sound and anxious again to take up the cares of busi- 
ness life. 



[07 



CHAPTER XV. 
Explorations on the Great Lakes* 

NO body of water on the American continent 
possesses a greater variety of scenery and 
changing characteristics than the big Georgian Bay 
at the nortliern part of Lake Huron. For ten years, 
the Canadian Government has had men exploring 
this almost unknown region, issuing charts of the 
thirty thousand islands that dot the waters. 

These charts were our only guide on the trip 
which I am about to describe. My friend's father 
is the owner of two islands in the Georgian Bay, 
ten miles out from Parry Sound, and this was to be 
our starting point. 

The journey by rail to Parry Sound becomes of 
interest when Niagara Falls is reached and the 
steamer is taken for Toronto; then the three hours' 
trip across the lake gives one an idea of the vast size 
of these bodies of fresh water. The country north 
of Toronto is uninteresting — a few farms, with 
108 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

acres of dry land covered with rocks and burnt tree 
stumps. The Parry Sound steamer was taken at 
Penetanguishene, but we made slow progress against 
a fierce gale that was blowing from a perfectly cloud- 
less sky. A short time before my arrival a valuable 
discovery of copper was made near the Sound, and 
it proved to be a rich one. The effect on the people 
(including the Indians) was electrical I and every- 
one was rushing to Parry Sound to stake off claims. 
We stopped at Sans Souci, where a few passengers 
left; this is a famous fishing resort and huge strings 
of bass, pike and maskinonge were displayed to us 
by several sportsmen. Rose Point was reached by 
seven o'clock; then the scattered lights along the 
shore told us Parry Sound was near, and rounding 
a point the steamer drew up to the dock, where I 
was received by my friend George with his steam 
launch. It was nine o'clock and pitch dark before 
we started for Spectacle Island. Although calm in 
the harbor, we found it dangerous work to brave 
the sea that was running outside; whenever a large 
wave struck us the engine would be stopped and the 
staunch little boat would ride safely over with its 
screw sticking out in the air. I was on the stern 
at the time, watching the receding waves disappear 
109 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

in the darkness, when suddenly the launch dove in 
the hollow of an enormous wave^ the outline of the 
shore disappeared, an explosion was heard and the 
engine stopped. It was impossible at first to tell 
what had happened, but above the roar of the wind 
I heard George call out to the engineer to take the 
wheel, and, upon examining the engine, found the 
packing of the cylinder had blown out. My friend, 
being a born mechanic, undertook on that dark and 
windy night the difficult task of removing the cylin- 
der and putting it back again, with the aid of only a 
monkey wrench and a jack knife. The damage re- 
paired, we continued on again and soon arrived at 
Spectacle Island without other mishaps. The next 
few days were spent in camp preparing for our ex- 
pedition to Sault Ste. Marie. Camping articles were 
packed on both the schooner, yacht and the steam 
launch, our plan being to proceed one hundred miles 
up the lake, leave our party in camp, while George, 
the engineer and I continued on to the '^Soo," some 
three hundred miles further. The starting day was 
a glorious one, the wind blew clear and cold from 
a cloudless sky brilliant with sunshine. Our speed 
was about six miles an hour, which dropped to four 
as the wind freshened; an inside course was then 
110 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

taken, and we soon reached Snug Harbor. Here one 
solitary lighthouse breaks the wildness of the land- 
scape. 

Five hours of steaming from Snug Harbor brought 
us to the desired location, and sighting a large and 
beautiful island, we selected it for our camping- 
place. The remainder of the afternoon was spent 
in pitching our five tents which were tied to trees 
for support in windy weather. The first week we re- 
mained in camp visiting the surrounding islands. 
It took us two hours to paddle round our island, 
which was a solid mass of granite rock, flat in places, 
almost as a billiard table. A few scrubby Norway 
pines, with limbs all on one side, were growing on 
the lee shore. The fishing almost anywhere was ex- 
traordinary — one could throw out a troll and catch 
a four or five pound bass; in a few minutes I cap- 
tured several maskinonge, one weighing as much as 
eighteen pounds. Our first visitor in camp was an 
Indian. He appeared before us while we were at 
supper, wild looking but harmless, a descendant of 
the once mighty tribe of Chippewas. He came to 
beg a crust of bread, anything we would give him, 
was always hungry, and refused nothing. Placing 
111 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

food before him, he devoured everv crumb, and then 
arose and silently departed in the darkness. 

The third day in camp was one most suited for 
a visit to the Limestone Islands some distance out in 
the Georgian Bay, so taking the launch we started 
for these wild and unexplored islands. To reach 
the open bay from camp was not an easy matter; 
shoals and reefs of granite rock were showing out 
of water everywhere. North Limestone Island was 
at first below the horizon, but soon an umbrella- 
shaped tree came into view, and then the island 
(which is only twelve feet high) appeared in the dis- 
tance. Some few yards from shore we reached the 
Midland Bank, a reef covered by twelve feet of water, 
and slowing the engine, we awoke the echoes from 
the island by blowing a whistle blast, and instantly 
from the shore, which looked like a bank of snow, 
rose a cloud of sea gulls, screaming around us. An- 
choring fifty yards away, we jumped into the skiff 
and landed on a shelving bank of stones piled ten 
feet high by the waves. We began exploring, at once 
examining with great interest the geological forma- 
tion of the island, which was composed of Leda clay, 
gray in color and slightly calcerous, containing mil- 
lions of fossil remains of animals, birds, insects, 
112 




Down The Allagash River. Page 96. 




Why Won't The Fire Burn? Churchill Lake Camp. Page 97. 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

flowers and shells, which belonged to the period when 
this region was submerged beneatli the ocean. The 
huge boulder formation and their overlying fossili- 
ferous beds prove that this island underwent in the 
later tertiary period a great and gradual depression, 
and then an equally gradual elevation. It was a 
wonderful sight to see, these fossil remains every- 
where around us, hundreds and thousands of years 
old. We collected beautiful specimens of gastropod 
shells, and in one place was discovered the petrified 
remains of a jaw about three feet long, of some ani- 
mal; this we tried to dig out complete, but found it 
impossible to chip off more than small bits from the 
flint-like rock in which it was embedded. Making 
a circuit to the other side of the island we faced the 
open bay, along which the shore extended for a hun- 
dred yards, a perfectly flat mass of fossilized clay. 
The sun was baking hot, and we went in swimming 
for an hour,, after which we started to cross the cen- 
tre of the island, and upon reaching the highest ele- 
vation on which grew the one solitary tree, we di.>- 
covered a mound of earth some two hundred yards 
long, at the base of which a depression in the ground, 
overgrown with bushes, led us to believe these wert:- 
the breastworks thrown up bv the Huron Indians 
113 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

during their fierce wars, and we began to search for 
any relics left by the departed Indians. We blew 
out several cartloads of dirt and rocks with dynamite, 
but nothing was found until I happened to discover 
on a mound of earth an odd shaped pile of rocks, and 
after digging down we dug out a lot of human bones, 
for we had run across the grave of a human being 
buried possibly a Inmdred years ago. The only relic 
found in the grave was a piece of flint used on mus- 
kets of very ancient design, which led us to believe 
this might be the grave of some French explorer. 
We had yet to visit the South Limestone Island, and 
the engineer offered to row me across. Glad of the 
chance to fish, I selected a large troll and reeled off 
some fifty feet. For nearlv a hundred yards huge 
granite rocks rose out of the lake, making islands of 
all sizes, some just awash, and others three feet high, 
upon which were perched scores of white sea gulls 
standing on one leg looking at us with their sharp, 
black eyes. The oars soon brought us to the island, 
and rowing near shore I felt a strong jerk on the 
line. Stopping the boat, I reeled in, and was much 
surprised to land a fifteen-pound salmon trout. 

South Limestone is uninteresting, being small and 
with very little vegetation; it is an exceedingly dirty 
114 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

island and as hot as a furnace, making a huge breed- 
ing place for sea gulls. One could walk hardly ten 
feet without stepping on a nest or on a young bird. 
The old birds were much bolder here, and we drove 
them away with sticks and stones. Nothing of in- 
terest was discovered, and we were glad to leave 
"Gull Island" and head our launch homeward, where 
we arrived safely by sundown. The day following 
we went prospecting for copper. We had been 
working up to this mining expedition for some time, 
and it was decided to make a two days' trip of it. 
We took along with us sledge hammers, crowbars, 
picks, steel drills, a forge furnace and a box of dyna- 
mite cartridges large enough to blow a war ship to 
atoms. Leaving camp by seven in the morning, we 
headed norward, steaming through innumerable 
channels and around countless islands. We exam- 
ined with a telescope the rocky shore for signs of 
copper stain until about noon, when a smoke, rising 
in the distance, aroused our curiosity, and heading 
towards it rounded a point of land and ran right 
into an Indian camp. Drawing up to the beach we 
created a panic by blowing a whistle blast. The 
Indians who were running along- the shore came to 
a halt and stood in a row staring at us with great 
115 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

astonishment. George told them by signs that we were 
looking for copper, and one of the 'Graves" under- 
standing matters entered his wigwam and returned 
with a large rock, which we saw contained fine speci- 
mens of copper. We asked what they would charge 
for informing us where they obtained it, to which 
they replied, *^sixty dollar." x\sking how far away 
it was, they pointed north, and said, ^' three a mile." 
That was enough information, so waiving "good- 
bye" we steamed away^, leaving them standing on 
the beach. The islands now became more mountain- 
ous, rocky, and overgrown with fine trees, and 
George soon pointed out a place to land. Eunning 
the launch up to shore we threw out our mining 
tools and began at once to search for copper. I felt 
a feverish excitement that was full of certainty, as 
we craw^led along the ground examining bits of 
stone, blowing off the dust and polishing them on 
our clothes. Among bushes and over rocks we scram- 
bled, until at last we halted under the projecting 
edge of a towering cliff, and George cracked off a 
piece of rock which he examined with a small eye- 
glass, then holding it out, exclaimed, "This is quartz, 
and through it runs a streak of blue which is pea- 
cock copper. It is here we must blast." 
116 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

One of us returned to the launch for drills while 
a claim was staked off. The engineer held the drill 
while we took turns at the hammer. It was slop- 
work, and nioht overtook us when we had driven 
down about a foot. Next morning found us at it 
again, and after three hours of the hardest kind of 
back-breaking work, the drill had sunk three feet. 
The water was then pumped out of the hole and we 
dropped in a dynamite cartridge, leaving a fuse that 
would burn fifteen minutes. Lighting this we 
rushed wildly down the bank, and jumping into the 
skiff, rowed out from the shore. A pale smoke was 
seen rising upwards, then a rumbling, followed by 
a tremendous roar, and a cloud of dirt, rocks and 
trees flew into the sky. Quickly we returned to the 
scene of the explosion. A cave had been blown out 
of the rock, but after searching every crack and 
crevice we found — absolutely nothing but a lot of 
granite rubbish and glittering mica that wasn't 
worth ten cents an acre. So vanished our dream, 
so melted our wealth away. Collecting our tools we 
returned to the launch. It was a depressing blow, 
but we had hopes for the future. Before starting 
for Sault Ste. Jilarie we visited the ''Black Bills," a 
group of islands hated by every pilot on the Great 
117 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Lakes. These islands are, strictly speaking, bare 
rocks situated nearly three miles from Look-out Isl- 
and, Point aux Baril. No launch could hope to 
reach these rocks, so taking the largest skiff we start- 
ed early on a calm day when the lake was without a 
ripple. We steered by compass, and a heavy swell 
tossed us about as we left the mainland. We were 
much surprised at about a mile from shore to see the 
bottom. George said we were over the Midland 
Bank, one of the most dangerous shoals known in 
the Georgian Bay. The Black Bills cover about half 
a square mile and are surrounded on all sides by 
shoal water. The large rocks are named, the most 
important being Lindsay and Meaford rock. We 
landed on South East rock, which is about twelve 
feet high, and is a solid mass of granite without a 
sign of vegetation. It was another resting place for 
sea gulls. An old bateau lay wrecked upon the sum- 
mit, quite in keeping with such a wild and desolate 
spot. After examining the various rocks we returned 
to camp, arriving there about six o'clock. 

The weather had been exceptionally fine during 

the first week in camp, but the day following our 

visit to the Black Bills Islands a change came. The 

sun set that night in a fiery red sky, not a breath of 

118 



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EXFLOBATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

air stirred the surface of the mighty lake^ which re- 
flected the declining sun with a lurid glare. The 
stillness was oppressive; all nature seemed awaiting 
the coming storm which descended about midnight. 
The rain and wind was terrific, a perfect flood which 
soaked everything. I thought a dozen times the 
tent would blow out into the lake, but the stakes held 
firm. The storm did not abate with the rising sun, 
and we spent the day in preparing for our journey to 
the "Soo." Provisions enough to last two weeks were 
stored in the launch, with guns, cameras, fishing 
tackle, maps, mining tools, and everything that 
would be needed. The engine was overhauled, and 
last of all we stored away two cords of hard wood, 
sufficient to run us about eighty miles, when a fresh 
supply would be obtained from some island. The 
first day^s run was fifty miles to Alexander Inlet, 
the launch travelled about eight knots an hour, and 
George, who was the pilot, found his way among 
the islands from the charts which he had before him. 
We took an inside course as the launch carried only 
a few feet of water, and soon reached Point aux 
Baril. Here three fishermen's huts and two light- 
houses stand out boldly against the dark green of 
the surrounding forest. Some fishing schooners 
119 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

were putting out as we entered b}^ the inside chan- 
nel, and they warned us not to risk ourselves in the * 
heavy swell outside^, but we had confidence in the 
launch and feared nothing. The channel to the 
open bay is most difficult to navigate, but a series 
of range lights help the mariner to run the gauntlet 
of dangerous shoals which extend nearly a mile from 
the shore. The entrance is sheltered by Lookout 
Island, and taking the western channel we quickly 
encountered a heavy swell, and George signalled for 
half -speed. After passing the mouth of Naishcoty- 
ang Eiver, we reached the entrance to Alexander In- 
let. Without the aid of anchored buoys a stranger 
could never discover the channel, which lies between 
two clusters of rocks called The Sisters and The 
Brothers. These shoals were breaking heavily as 
we passed safely between them, only to run aground 
on Harbor Eeef covered by a foot of water. The en- 
gine was reversed, but this failed to drag the launch 
off, and it was only by carrying the anchor ahead 
and pulling with all our might that we were finally 
freed. The inlet was a perfect shelter, and anchor- 
ing near shore I went bass fishing while supper was 
being prepared. Next day we left at an early hour, 
coasting along the shore between the mainland and 
120 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

Indian Island. The Shawanaga River was passed 
by ten o^ clock, and we reached the Bustard Islands, 
where a stop was made for lunch. These islands are 
located a mile south of French River; they are a 
cluster of rocks both above and below water, of every 
shape and description. They are composed of gneiss 
with occasional veins of hornblendic character, indi- 
cating larger hidden masses containing magnetite. 
This accounts for the abnormal variation of the com- 
pass, one-quarter point westerly, as we discovered 
later. A lighthouse adorns the Bustard Rocks, giv- 
ing a civilized appearance to a most desolate group 
of rocks. The wind came up by afternoon, and 
we encountered quite a sea after leaving the Bus- 
tards. The engineer said we had sufficient fuel to 
run as far as Killarney Harbor, but the increasing 
gale delayed our progress, and by four o'clock we 
were a long ways off from Killarney and our wood 
nearly gone. Examining the chart we found the 
nearest island to be Green Island, about three miles 
distant; this we at once headed for, as night was 
approaching and it began to rain. One by one the 
sticks of wood were piled in, and just as we threw 
in our last stick the island came into view. Green 
Island is named from its dense growth of fir trees. 
121 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

It is composed of lime stone, and is ten or fifteen 
feet high and diamond-shaped, pointing directly out 
towards the open bay, so that the waves which were 
rolling in, divided at the exposed shore and met 
again on the lee shore, making it impossible for the 
launch to approach, but we made the shore in a skiff, 
which was washed up on the beach by a huge breaker. 
Like shipwrecked mariners we searched everywhere 
for a stick of dry wood, but without success, until 
we finally found a drift log, which the engineer cut 
into suitable lengths for the boiler. We now steered 
by compass. The rain made it impossible to see land 
at any point; we might as well have been blindfold- 
ed, as we soon lost our location on the chart, and 
the noise of breakers ahead warned us that we were 
running ashore. A shift one-quarter point easterly 
was made, which proved to be the right direction, 
for a beacon light came into view and we steered into 
Killarney Harbor. We did not land that night. An 
excited crowd of rough looking French Canadians 
gathered on the wharf near by to watch us, but our 
guns were left in sight to keep away visitors. 'Rext 
morning we started early. The Grand Manitoulin 
Island protected us on the south, and heavy seas 
would not be encountered until passing the Clapper- 
122 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

ton Islands. The scenery changed considerably and 
many mountains were seen in the distance, promi- 
nent among them being La Cloche. If one refers 
to a map of this region, he will see that the mainland 
is cut np into hundreds of bays of all sizes, which 
are filled with many large and small islands; parts 
of these bays we passed over, one particularly beau- 
tiful bay is called "Frazier" ; this is one of the finest 
sheets of water I have ever seen, but it is seldom vis- 
ited by anyone. We travelled rapidly in and out 
among the islands, sometimes crossing large stretches 
of water, then diving in a narrow passageway 
through the very heart of some island. There were 
no blind alleys in this labyrinth; we could always 
find a way out. We passed in the afternoon a party 
of Indians in an old sailboat steered by a squaw and 
smoking a clay pipe. By five we stopped to camp, 
and from the launch I shot a large Canadian Bald 
Head Eagle as it was soaring over our heads. It 
was a beautiful bird and measured six feet three 
inches from wing to wing. The following day was 
calm and without any wind. Our course lay about 
a mile from shore through the Whalesback channel, 
named from a large rock fifty feet high, resembling 
the body of a whale. The rock was partly covered 
123 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

with sailors' names in large letters^ some in French, 
others in Norwegian, but how they ever climbed the 
sides of the rock is hard to say. Whaleback rock is 
about nine miles from Algoma Mills, which was 
reached by noon. We did not stop, but steamed on 
to Thessalon^ a small village of about a thousand, 
where we landed to mail a letter. Nothing of in- 
terest was found and we proceeded on to Serpent 
Island, where we camped for the night. Our run 
had been an exceptionally long one, the distance 
being over one hundred miles from the Clapperton 
Islands. We anchored in a beautiful cove. The 
island is small, being only one-quarter mile long, and 
we found shelter on the lee shore. We could hear 
the surf pounding on the other side. George feared 
the wind would change during the night and blow 
up a storm, and he was right, for we were awakened 
about midnight by the rolling of the launch and the 
howling of the wind. The launch had swung around 
and was drifting away from the island, and it was 
necessary to cast another anchor, which held firm, 
and it rode out safely the gale which blew all night. 
We cooked breakfast on a beautiful sand beach on 
the island, building a large fire, over which was 
broiled an eight-pound pike captured on a troll. 
124 



EXPLOBAriONS ON THE GREAT LAKES. 

Leaving by eight, we headed in the direction of 
Bruce Mines, a small village named from its copper 
mines; this place was passed by eleven, and we en- 
tered the St. Mary's river. Here George hesitated 
which course to take, as our charts included only as 
far as St. Joseph Island, but we decided on the easter- 
ly side of Sugar Island. The river current was now 
against us and our speed slackened. We chased a 
flock of ducks, running them down easily, and from 
the bow I shot two with the greatest ease. George 
steered by them as they floated on the top of the 
water, and the engineer, reaching over the side, 
pulled them in without stopping our speed. Some 
five miles up stream we passed three lighthouses, 
marking the channel for the many barges, schoon- 
ers and whalebacks which were passing up and down 
on their way through the lakes. Our supply of 
wood was again low, and it was decided to run into a 
little cove and anchor near a house. A small wharf 
extended out from shore on which was piled cords 
of wood for the use of tugs, and as this was our 
chance to obtain some hard wood, George blew a loud 
whistle and aroused the owner to life. He was very 
glad to sell his wood, and we paid him 50 cents a 
cord for it, which was the cheapest wood I ever saw. 
125 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Kext day we bade "good-bye'^ to our friends and 
headed up stream. We were nearing the "Soo" and 
the river became more rapid. Many fleets of grain 
whalebacks were passed; one string was composed 
cf eight, led by a single tug. By two in the after- 
noon we reached the "Soo"; on the left rose the 
smoke of a mighty city. Tall buildings and tower- 
ing chimneys ascended into the sky, and in the fore- 
ground could be seen a srtring of boats nearly a mile 
long waiting their turn to pass the locks of the canal. 
This was the American side. On the right, in 
marked contrast, reposed the village of the Canadian 
''fcjoo,'* a few dilapidated looking houses and not a 
single factory. Our stay at the "Soo" was a short 
one, and after visiting points of interest we turned 
oui launch and began our homeward journey. We 
made rapid progress and reached the mouth of Mis- 
si sanga Eiver on the evening of the third day. The 
weather had been perfect, a strong blow from the 
iicrthwest cleared the air, giving it that invigorating 
quf.lity that is peculiar to the great lakes; but sud- 
denly the wind changed to the south, and next morn- 
ing T\e found ourselves completely surrounded by 
smoke, which the wind was driving from the south, 
laden with cinders and ashes from some great fire 
126 




A Milk" White Deer. Allagash River. Page loi. 




The St. John's River. A Dangerous Run. Page 105. 



EXPLORATIONS ON THE GRE.iT LAKES. 

The air was stilling; sometimes it was almost im- 
possible to get a breath of fresh air. We were tied 
down to our anchorage^ as the launch could not travel 
a hundred yards without running aground. For 
two daj'S we remained in this position, but finally 
the wind veered, and we proceeded on again. The 
next stop was at the town of Little Current. Here 
the water rushes between Manitoulin Island and 
Goat Island caused by the wind; this current is 
sometimes very strong, giving the appearance of a 
river. It is said that the rise and fall of the Great 
Lakes is about six inches every twenty-four hours, 
but whether this is a positive fact I have not as yet 
been able to ascertain. We landed at Little Cur- 
rent, buying some eggs and an axe, one of ours hav- 
ing been lost on an island. We did not camp near 
the village, but stopped in a small inlet which we 
named Snug Harbor; a narrow entrance about 
twelve feet wide let us in from the lake. As we en- 
tered a flock of ducks dove, but rose again, and I 
had no difficulty in shooting a couple for supper. 
A dive from the launch next morning refreshed us, 
and after a hearty breakfast we headed for Byng In- 
let. The wind favored us and Killarney was passed 
about noon, and we reached Byng Inlet by five 
127 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

o'clock. This is nearly fifteen miles south of French 
Eiver, where a small town is located. We expected 
next day to reach camp, and as it was nearly two 
weeks since we left our party in camp, we were anx- 
ious to see them again. The distance from Byng 
Inlet to Point aux Baril is about fifty miles ; this we 
covered in five hours. The landmarks soon became 
familiar, and we took an inside course, winding in 
among the rocky islands, and before long the tents 
of our party were seen, and blowing a long whistle 
we drew up to the landing place. 

Next day we broke camp and returned to Spectacle 
Island. Here my vacation ended, and bidding my 
friends *%ood-bye," I returned to Boston by way of 
Montreal and the Canadian Pacific E. R. 



128 



CHAPTER XVL 
It is Worth While* 

HIDDEN" far away among the spruce 
and northern pines of ^aine there is 
a quiet and secluded spot, / one of those 
beautiful green gardens of Eden, where peace- 
ful Nature wrapped in deep repose unfolds it- 
self in blissful ignorance of the desecrating hand of 
man. Long years ago the Maker of the universe de- 
signed and planted in this rural paradise a pond, 
whose sparkling waters reflect with ever changing 
motion the varying dreamy moods of Nature. The 
pathway reaching to this pond is not a straight and 
narrow way, but, turning at a rock or fallen tree, it 
winds and twists in mystic circles, caring not which 
way it leads. This is the road to camp, 
along whose wild and rugged way we will 
blaze a path through the vast, unbounded 
forest. The road begins like a gate to a tunnel, 
at the foot of a high mountain, and we follow its di- 
129 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

rection, pushing aside the bushes before us as we 
enter the forest. A few steps and we tread on a 
carpet of thick growing moss, and the sweet smelling 
evergreens give us a welcome. Ever and anon from 
the branch of some tree comes the merry chatter of 
a squirrel, breaking the peaceful silence, then scam- 
pering down from its lofty perch, like the flash of 
a sunbeam it crosses the pathway before us, happy 
and free. As we bury ourselves deeper in the hidden 
mysteries of the woods, larger game appear ; a fox or 
a rabbit runs silently over the leaves and stops in 
the path before us ; then turning, it looks, and becom- 
ing frightened, disappears in the forest. Our road 
soon ceases to be a well beaten path, and we now en- 
counter a wind fall, a mighty monarch of trees, which 
has thrown itself across our pathway, and we make 
a turn, only to loose the trail, but find it again in a 
thicket beyond. It is no easy task we have under- 
taken to reach this mountain pond, for our packs 
are heavy and the heat of climbing makes us call a 
halt. We quench our thirst in a diminutive brook 
which flows beside the pathway. Clear and spark- 
ling this bubbling brook finds its winding course be- 
tween the mossy banks and among sharp and jagged 
rocks which strive to check its onward course, but 
130 



IT IS WORTH WHILE. 

iail, and swelling on with pride, this tiny stream 
becomes a mighty river ere it meets the sea. 

A feeling of rest and peacefulness steals upon ns 
as we catch the enchantment of the woods; with one 
intent we bend with listening ear to catch the strains 
of harmony from the trees, the music of the pines. 
"There is a pleasure in the pathless woods." The 
cares of the world are put aside; they cannot enter 
here, for all is rest and peacefulness. It is only 
foolish man who, in his greed for gain, rushes on in 
reckless haste and crushes all beneath his eager foot- 
steps. Not so with Nature, for Nature cannot hurry ; 
with her "one day is as a thousand years," and today 
will soon be gone and tomorrow here. 

"Why should we waste on trifling cares this life 
which God's compassion spares?" Is it not far bet- 
ter that we stop and pause and sometimes take the 
longer way than exhaust ourselves by climbing every 
barren mountain top? 

Our rest well earned, we now ascend the precipice 
before us; its steep and rugged sides seem almost 
inaccessible, but we scramble on and ask ourselves 
why Nature placed this bold obstruction in our path- 
way. An open spot is reached upon the mountain 
side, and as we leave the shadow of the forest the 
131 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

glory of the Heavens bursts upon us. Above our 
heads the dazzling sun shines from a clear blue sky, 
brilliant with sunshine; here and there a white 
fleeced cloud flies scudding on before the wind. Far, 
far above us, as we gaze, we see an eagle soaring lazily 
round and round in graceful curves, when suddenly, 
like a flash, it falls to earth, and rising from a thick- 
et, flies away with its vanquished prey. We pause 
awhile to gaze enraptured at the glorious panorama 
spreading out beneath us. The far-off mountains 
which were once so high look now the size of foot- 
hills. The winding rivers have become mere silver 
threads, which make their way with snake-like turn- 
ings through the verdant fields ; an occasional pond or 
lake is. dotted here and there, and surrounding all the 
near-by mountains rise beneath us like the billows 
of a sea. 

Entering again the shadows of the forest we si- 
lently pursue our way and reach ere long a fallen 
hemlock tree, which, having rebelled against the rag- 
ing tempests, has met its fate by lightning stroke. 
The great roots that have been its hope for ages are 
torn from their bed of earth and wave in anger at 
defeat. The road here takes a turn to reach the 
132 



IT 18 WORTH WHILE. 

other side, and from the soft, dry earth a noisy par- 
tridge rises with a mighty roar, making our hearts 
jump, but only for a moment. The trail now leads 
to a level stretch of ground, and the colonnade of 
trees thins out and the spruce and pines gives way 
to thick growths of birch and alder trees. Kind Na- 
ture has decreed that from the white birch tree the 
Indian may strip its bark, and with his needle of 
bone and thread of hemp shape a light and buoyant 
craft, and travel over pond and stream. No exciting 
adventures befell us on our way to camp. Its charm 
lies in the freedom of the woods, fresh air, sweet 
fragrance from the balsam trees. Unconsciously we 
walk along and give ourselves to earnest thought and 
meditation; anon a rustle by the path engages our 
attention, and wondering what the noise may be, we 
find it is a puny, harmless toad. The shades of night 
were drawing near, when through the maze of trees 
ahead a break is seen, and hastening on we reach at 
last our mountain pond. As we approach in quiet 
expectation, a splash is heard. It is an animal feed- 
ing in the water. In eager haste we hold our guns 
prepared for battle, but find it is a timid, harmless 
deer, who, when he sees us, gives a ^^low" and then — 
away it goes like a shadow in a dream. Throwing 
183 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

our packs in a "dug out" on the beach, we push away 
and paddle out on the laughing waters, through the 
growth of pads and eel grass into deep water, past 
a small island to a miniature lagoon, where with a 
turn of the paddle we bring our frail boat to a fallen 
spruce amidst a growth of aged pines and hemlock 
trees. This is to be our camping place : a very for- 
tress fenced in on one side by a thick jungle of wind- 
falls; on the other by a ridge extending for a mile 
or more, thickly overgrown with ancient trees; be- 
hind us reaches the cedar swamp and in front stretch- 
es out the waters of the pond. 

We select a dry spot carpeted with pine needles, 
and here we build a lean-to ; the noise of our axe as 
it eats its way into the heart of the tree startles the 
echoes from the shore; then with a loud crash the 
tree falls. The guide strips off the sweet smelling 
fir boughs to thatch the roof and build a bed. 

What care we for doors or windows? Let the 
winds blow and the cold night air descend upon us, 
for we fear not; one never catches cold when camp- 
ing out. At sunset, as the dark shadows are steal- 
ing through the forest, we follow a deer path leading 
around the pond, a trail which has not known the 
light imprint of an Indian moccasin for many, many 
134 



IT IS WORTH WHILE. 

moons. Ah ! those were the days when this forest 
land was in its glory ; now those days have passed and 
gone, and desolation reigns supreme. Once the rov- 
ing Indian owned this vast estate, these countless 
miles of forest lands and mountain streams. If 
rocks and trees could speak, what interesting tales 
they'd tell, of noble game, of mighty storms, of In- 
dian camps and Indian wars ! These few remaining 
monarch pines that have escaped the logger's axe 
stand silent and serene, calmly awaiting their own 
uncertain end. The trail leads us to a dense thicket 
where we do not care to follow, and we retrace our 
steps to camp, where the smell of cooking viands 
tempts our appetites — ^that hunger of the woods, 
which does not care for knives or forks, the hunger 
of an outdoor life. Baked beans, broiled trout, hoe 
cake and coSee — a meal fit for a king ! 

Finishing our repast, we take a paddle on the 
placid surface of the pond. Not a sound save the 
drip of our paddle breaks the silence of the land and 
water. Occasionally a trout or salmon rises to the 
top, in eager haste to capture some poor, harm- 
less fly, which being born at sunrise perishes by 
night. We rest our paddles and drift at wiU, listen- 
ing, for we know not what; then from far away 
135 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

comes the wild, weird cry of a loon, faint at first, it 
grows louder and louder, until, breaking out in a 
wild halloo, it dies away in a long drawn wail like 
the despairing cry from a departed spirit. Darkness 
has descended over land and water, the lofty tops of 
spruce and fir trees outline themselves against the 
darkening sky like the spires of a city. Here and 
there a star begins to faintly twinkle. To our right 
the planet Mars, that beautiful orb of night, grows 
brighter in the dim twilight, and we watch intently 
its brilliant changing colors. A ghost-like feeling 
creeps upon us as we silently drift along, not daring 
to move or speak, but listening to the faint night 
sounds that come from the forest. The great horned 
owl leaves his home in the cedar swamp and sits him- 
self in a hemlock tree to serenade us, "tu-whit-tu- 
whoo.^' Near by on the shore we hear the splash of 
an animal coming to quench his thirst after the heat 
of the day. Splash, splash, drip, drip, as he moves 
through the water, then scenting danger the war note 
of a bull moose rings out on the still night air, "ugh, 
ugh, oo-oo-oo-ugh." We paddle nearer, but the 
moose scents danger, and with another ^''ugh, ugh," 
flees to the forest. 

The full moon now rises slowly from behind the 
136 



IT IS WORTH WHILE. 

dark tree tops; like a huge ball it hangs in the sky, 
and its mellow rays light up the water with a dim 
lustre. We gaze at the Queen of Night and think 
of our friends at home, so many, many miles away. 
The yellow rays from the moon shine silvery bright 
in a pathway across the pond, and as we watch the 
moving water a dark object appears; it is the head 
of a buck, with its spread of antlers, swimming from 
shore to shore. 

The night air is cold and a fog rises off the water, 
but from the direction of our camp comes the cheer- 
ful welcome of a roaring fire, and we paddle back 
to shore. To sit by a camp-fire, smoking a pipe and 
listening to a guide tell stories of the camp and trail, 
is pleasure indeed. There is a feeling of safety 
around a camp-fire; the bright flame and showers of 
sparks that ascend like serpents from the snapping 
brands of wood is sufficient protection from any wild 
animals that might be prowling around the camp. 
At the most exciting part of the story a burning 
brand drops in the fire, making the cold shivers run 
down your back. The guide piles on more logs, and 
the great heat from the green, sappy wood sends the 
young blood coursing through your veins. But gaz- 
ing into a fire soon makes one feel sleepy, a drowsy 
137 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

feeling creeps -upon us, and knocking the ashes from 
our pipes, we say "good night" and turn in at last 
on our bed of sweet smelling fir boughs to sleep- 
Peaceful sleep, born of a day of honest toil, soon 
claims our guide, and his loud snoring tells of 
dreams by pond and stream in the happy hunting 
ground with his long departed ancestors, but I could 
not sleep. My imagination was awake to every dis- 
tant sound. I listened to the moaning of the wind 
in the trees above, then somewhere in the forest I 
heard a tree fall^ and wondered what had caused it. 
A pattering of feet on the dry leaves near the lean- 
to aroused me to wakefulness, but too tired to inves- 
tigate, I turned over and fell asleep as the great 
horned owl in the hemlock tree began his serenade, 
"to-whit-tu-whoo, tu-whit-tu-whoo." 

This is the haven to which the trail has led us^ 
this is our journey's end. Faint hearted and weary 
traveller, fear not, for the road to camp is always 
a safe and harmless one. Leave the care and toil of 
daily strife and stroll along the soft, moss-covered 
trail to camp, to that fair "Acadia"; and when we 
reach the land of which the poets sing, we'll pitch 
our camp beneath the waving hemlock trees and 
there receive that blessed peace that God has given 
to those who wish to find it. 
138 




It Was An Hour's Paddle Around Our Island. Page iii. 




Bass Fishing on the Big Georgian Bay. Page iii. 



CHAPTER XVIL 
Some of the Wild Animals of Maine, 

IT is said that the Maine woods is a sportsman's 
paradise for game^ but in my opinion the larg- 
est part of the game that once roved this vast wil- 
derness has been killed off or driven to wilder re- 
gions by the rapid advance of civilization. 

The Caribou, which is the lordly monarch of the 
forest, is almost now extinct in Maine, and only in 
the wilds of New Brunswick and the big North West 
can this animal be found. But there are smaller 
game in good abundance, and in the hunting season 
one could hardly find a better field in which to test 
his prowess with the rifle. 

The Caribou. 

The caribou is found mostly in New Foundland. 

They are in appearance like a cow, with short legs 

and broad feet^ which enable them to travel rapidly 

over the snow. They spend the winter in the shelter 

139 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

of the thickly wooded sections, feeding on the black 
moss which hangs from the trees. Their thick fur 
turns white on the approach of winter, and they herd 
in large companies in the dense woods. Early in 
September the velvet on the horns rubs off ; the stags 
are now in their prime, and the rutting season be- 
gins in October. During that time the stags fight 
fiercely and will not hesitate to rush upon hunters 
when they get sight of them. Their great antlers are 
formidable weapons. They use their feet also. 
Sometimes their horns become interlocked and both 
animals perish by starvation. The period of their 
migration begins with the early autumn frosts, when 
they start to graze southward. The Maine law on 
Caribou is closed until 1905. 

The Moosc^ 

The noblest game that one now finds in Maine is 
the moose, the largest of the deer family. He is a 
lover of the wooded country, and there he will be 
found during the hunting season. The moose is an 
ugly animal in appearance, owing to the great size 
of its nose ; long, waiving ears, short neck, small eyes, 
narrow head, long legs and stumpy tail. Its great 
antlers differ from those of the deer family, being 
140 



SOME OF THE WILD ANIMALS OF MAINE. 

broad and flat, emerging from the skull sideways, in- 
stead of upwards, as in the deer. The male has a 
short mane on the neck and shoulders^ and a hairy 
pouch hanging from the throat. In the mating sea- 
son the bull moose is a ferocious animal, and if driven 
to bay will not hesitate to attack an enemy with great 
ferocity. 

Closed time on moose as amended by chapter 222, 
Public Laws of 1901, is as follows: 

No person shall at any time hunt, catch, kill, de- 
stroy or have in possession any cow or calf moose. 
And the term "calf moose," as herein used, shall 
mean ihat tnese animals are calves until they are at 
least one year old and have at least two prongs to 
their horns. No person shall, between the first day 
of December and the fifteenth day of October, in any 
manner hunt, take^ catch or kill or have in posses- 
sion any bull moose or part thereof; and no person 
shall between October fifteenth and December first 
take, catch, kill or have in possession more than one 
bull moose or part thereof. 

The Decf. 

The real game of the Maine woods is the American 
deer, which can be found in great abundance 
141 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

throughout the state. During the summer months 
they are very tame, approaching the settlements and 
feeding in the ponds and streams, but when fall 
comes and the hunting season opens they seem to 
be warned of their danger, and the sportsman must 
seek for them in the forests and on the mountains. 
The distinctive sign of the deer is the large, solid 
horns which they shed every year. These are pecu- 
liar to the male, with the exception of the reindeer, 
where both sexes have them. After the horns have 
been shed, a swelling appears, which grows rapidly 
in size, branching out in different directions. After 
the horns have obtained their full growth, a bone 
forms at their base, cutting off the blood supply. 
The covering of skin called "velvet^^ then dries and 
is rubbed off by the animal, what remains being 
really dead bone, which finally is shed and the process 
is repeated over again. 

The deer feeds on leaves, twigs, bark, grasses and 
the weeds and lily pads of ponds and streams. Closed 
season for deer is between December fifteenth and 
October first next following; and between October 
first and December fifteenth next following no one 
can catch, kill, or have in his possession more than 
two deer. The September law, so called, was en- 
142 



SOME OF THE WILD ANIMALS OF MAINE, 

tirely repealed by chapter 278, Public Laws, 1901, 
60 that it is impossible to legally kill a deer for any 
purposes during that month. 

Bears* 

Ursus Americanus. Habitat, United States and 
Canada. 

Bears are not often found in Maine, as they have 
nearly all been killed off by the inhabitants, but oc- 
casionally one will run across the species known as 
Black Bear (ursus Americanus). Its size seldom ex- 
ceeds five feet. The beauty of the fur of the black 
bear, though shaggy, is more lustrous and finer than 
that of the bears of the Old World. The black bear 
eats almost anything — wild fruit, berries, roots, 
frogs, fish, turtles and animals of all sizes, from the 
field mouse to the caribou. It will not even refuse 
insects, and the honey of wild bees often gets old 
bruin into trouble. The bears crawl into holes in 
trees and caves in rocks when the winter comes. 
They are not ferocious except with young, and if left 
alone will seldom attack a man. It is lawful to shoot 
a bear at any time. 



143 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

Wild Cats. 

Felis Lynx. Habitat, North Temperate Zone. 

The animal to be feared most of all in Maine is 
the .wild cat. Fortunately there are not many to 
be found, but of all wild animals in Maine this is 
the most ferocious. It is much larger and stronger 
than the domestic variety; has a large, thick head, 
with big, staring black eyes, and a short tail. It is 
cruel and fierce, often killing for the mere love of 
blood. Small deer and the smaller animals provide 
the wild cat with food. In winter time, when driven 
by starvation, the wild cat will not hesitate to at- 
tack a man, sometimes springing upon him from the 
branch of a tree where it has been lying in wait. If 
you see a wild cat in Maine, shoot it, and you will 
not be arrested for breaking the law! 

The Beaver. 

Genus Castor. Habitat, North America. 

One of the most intelligent of the lower animals 
is the beaver. There are two species, European and 
the other American. The former is preserved by 
force of law, and the latter is on the way to rapid 
extermination. The beaver is a practical engineer. 
144 




A Lake Trout from the Big Georgian Bay, Lake Huron. Page 114. 



SOME OF THE WILD ANIMALS OF MAINE. 

Its industry has made the name a proverb. This 
interesting little animal lives in the water, working 
day and night, existing partly on aquatic plants, but 
mostly upon the bark of trees. They build their 
houses upon some water-course that is surrounded 
by a forest. Here they get together in colonies, build 
their lodges and construct their dams and canals. 
The first lodges are built upon the banks of the 
stream, with an opening under water leading to the 
floor of the lodge. After the dams are built, more 
houses are made upon the islands that are left ; these 
have two entrances for bringing in wood and bark 
for winter food. The lodges are made of mud and 
sticks and are circular in shape, some being as large 
as eight feet from side to side. The dams are made 
of sticks after the bark has been removed for winter 
food. Brush wood and stones are also brought into 
use. Their mud dams are sometimes solid enough 
to bear a man and horse. The beaver fells large 
trees with its teeth, cuts them up into suitable lengths 
and floats them down the river to their dams. Some- 
times a lower dam is made to oppose the water pres- 
sure within by one from without. Pages could be 
written of the interesting performances of this in- 
teresting and most intelligent animal. 
145 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

The Pocupinc* 

Genus Erethizon. Habitat, Maine and Canada. 

The porcupine, or hedge-hog, is the camp scav- 
anger. In all parts of Maine and Canada he is to 
be found, particularly around the deserted loggers^ 
camp. The Maine hedge-hog is about two feet long, 
weighing twenty pounds or more, and covered with 
long spines, white with brown and black tips. These 
spines come readily out and have barbed points, 
which enable them to work their way into any ani- 
mal, and they are exceedingly painful and difficult 
to remove. The common idea that a porcupine can 
throw its quills is erroneous. The porcupine lives on 
leaves, twigs, bark and beech-nuts. It will visit 
camp at night time, prowling around when all is still, 
seeking for scraps of food from the evening meal. 
They are a harmless animal, but mighty unpleasant 
to come in contact with inside one's camp, as I have 
done. 

The Muskrat. 

Genus Fiber. Habitat, United States and Canada. 

Muskrats abound in every sluggish stream and 
muddy pond throughout Maine and Canada. They 
146 



SOME OF THE WILD ANIMALS OF MAINE. 

are large in size, sometimes being over a foot in 
length, with tails ten inches long, used in swimming. 
Their fur is in good demand, being soft and fine, of 
a dark brown shade, but not of great value. At twi- 
light, as one paddles along the calm surface of the 
water, he will see scores of muskrats swimming from 
shore to shore, parting the water before them with 
their head like the prow of a ship. 

The Rabbit. 

Genus Lepus. Habitat, widely distributed. 

One of the most common of Maine rodents is the 
hare, or brown rabbit. The American rabbit is a true 
hare, the largest is commonly called "jack rabbit. '' It 
has a reddish-brown fur, with a white tail and very 
big ears. The smaller species is the common grey 
rabbit. There are besides these two sorts in the far- 
North which turn white in winter. The rabbits are 
vegetable eaters, make their nest on the ground,- 
though they sometimes use the abondoned burrows of 
other animals or hollow trees. Parts of the rabbit 
are very good eating, and they can be easily killed 
with a rifle. 

147 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

The Mink* 

Genus Mustela. Habitat, North America. 

The mink is an American animal. They are great 
Ush eaters, and their webbed toes with long hair en- 
ables them to catch the most agile fish. The mink 
is found along the many water courses of northern 
Maine and Canada. Their ears are small and their 
hair is long and glossy, of a rich brownish hue, vary- 
ing to a dull yellow, and always with a black tail. 
Their fur is in great demand. All minks are ca- 
pable of giving off an extremely unpleasant odor, 
worse than that of a pole cat. Closed time on mink 
is between the first day of May and the fifteenth day 
of October. The fine is $10 for each animal in vio- 
lation of the law. 



148 



CHAPTER XVIIL 

How to Build a Logf Cabin* 

THE pleasure of living in a log cabin that one has 
helped to build can only be appreciated and 
understood by those who are fortunate enough to own 
one. The knowledge of how to build and furnish a log 
cabin, difficult as it may seem to be^, is not really a 
hard one to learn, and by studying carefully the fol- 
lowing pages one can get the full instructions of how 
it can be done. If the subject is gone into in a dry, 
mechanical way, the writer begs to be forgiven, for 
in the building of log cabins one must be both tech- 
nical and decidedly practical. 

The well bred man of today does not care to» 
go into the woods as a tramp and live in a cave- 
or the hollow of a tree, for he knows that the real 
pleasures of life are being comfortable and to live- 
well and happily, having enough for one's wants,, 
with some traces of civilization around him. 

Health should be the first aim of every man. It is 
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CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

God^s divine law; without it one is unfit for any- 
thing. True health is best obtained by having plenty 
of fresh air and absolute cleanliness. 

Before beginning on the log cabin I shall describe, 
as briefly as possible, the building of what might be 
called temporary shelters — the "lean-to" and the 
'^n3rush camp." A ^^rush camp" is one that can be 
made in almost a very few minutes by cutting more 
than half way through the trunk of a hemlock tree, 
about six feet from the ground, leaving the butt end 
fastened to the stump, with the top resting on the 
ground; then cut away the boughs from underneath 
and spread them from the sides of the tree (as a 
ridge pole) to the ground. Another ^^Drush camp" 
can be made by placing a ridge pole between two 
trees, about ten feet apart, then place from the ridge 
pole to the ground large hemlock boughs, making 
them like the sides of a tent. Fine, smaller boughs 
may be laid on the ground, two feet thick, for a bed. 

The Indian wigwam is quickly and easily built by 
standing three poles in the shape of a pyramid and 
tying them together at the top ; then add other poles, 
tilling up the wide spaces, with the exception of a 
space on the sheltered side for a door. Thatch the 
outside of the poles with evergreen boughs and brush. 
150 




Among The Islands Of The Big Georgian Bay. Page 115. 




"We Steered Through Countless Islands. Page 115. 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 

Such a camp as this will stand a very heavy rain and 
the strongest gale. 

The 'Tiean-to" is a camp very popular with hunters 
and guides, and is usually made when there are 
a half dozen or more in the party. It is my 
favorite camp. Get two good, large crotched sticks 
for the front posts, and drive them securely into 
the ground. Lay a stout pole across the forks, 
and from the pole run smaller poles to the ground, 
securing them at the bottom by driving into the 
ground. Cover the top with fir, spruce or cedar 
boughs, using the finer ones for a bed. The sides 
of the camp should be filled in with boughs. 
A large log should be cut the right length and 
placed on the ground between the upright poles; 
one can also be placed at the back of the camp. 
The roof should be thatched with evergreen boughs 
or with large strips of spruce bark taken from the 
green trees (the process of stripping bark will be 
described later). 

The Log: Cabin* 

The location of the camp is most important. Do 
not think of building on wet or marshy ground, but 
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CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

select some dry, hard spot on an elevation of land, 
or on a hillside, and get near a good spring of fresh 
water. If this cannot be found, a rapid running 
brook will be just as good. At the Pine Point camp, 
described in Chapter XII, there was no spring or 
brook, and it was necessary to row out on the lake, 
sink a large bottle with a weight to the bottom and 
pull the cork out by a string. The water was found 
fairly cold, but rather brackish. If you are locating 
near a pond, find a good sheltered spot, as this will 
be most desirable in windy weather and more suitable 
for boats or canoes. A smooth, sandy beach will be 
very useful for a daily swim. All lovers of Nature 
will look for beautiful scenery, and if one can obtain 
a commanding position overlooking a succession of 
hills or distant mountains surrounding a pond or 
lake, it will add much to the value of your camp. 
It will be quite necessary to have plenty of straight 
timber near where you are to build, but if locating by 
a lake logs can be cut at a distance and floated in 
rafts to the desired spot. 

Your camp should harmonize and blend with its 

surroundings, as an object built by man to beautify 

the works of God. If one wishes to consult an 

arcchitect, well and good, but a cabin made after 

152 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 

one's own ideas will give more pleasure in the end, 
and as for myself, I like to be my own architect. 
Having made your plans, stake out the size of your 
building, so that the trees may be cut down and 
the ground cleared at a sufficient distance to pre- 
vent any decayed trees from falling on the building. 
Some Maine log cabins are rectangular in shape, 
and constructed with only one room, which is used 
for all purposes ; a cook stove being on one side, with 
a table opposite, and along the side opposite the door 
bunks are built, two in a row, with an extra tier 
above of two bunks. Several chairs and stools com- 
plete the furnishings. This kind of a camp is easy 
of construction and needs little description, so I will 
pass over it and describe the cabin of larger dimen- 
tions. 

Foundations of the Camp* 

If posts are used for the four corner foundations 
pick out solid timber of about twelve inches in 
diameter, either hemlock, pine or cedar. The posts 
should be about five feet long, and placed in holes 
dug in the ground deep enough to reach solid ground 
or rock. If the building is rectangular, say twenty- 
153 



CAMP FIRES IN TEE WILDERNESS. 

four feet by fifteen feet, the twenty-four feet side 
should have two posts between the corners, and the 
fifteen feet side one post. Cut the logs off square at 
the top and at the same height, so the first tier of 
logs will have a level foundation. If stone is to be 
used, dig holes three feet in depth and fill with 
small stones or broken rock to the level of the 
ground, then get cobble stones and place on top of 
the broken rock. Be careful that the top stones are 
high enough to take the first row of logs. If the 
ground is firm it will not be necessary to dig holes 
and use broken rock. 

Selection of Log;s« 

Use pine, spruce or hemlock logs for your camp, 
and those best suited for the purpose are straight 
and uniform in shape and perfectly free from decay. 
The logs may vary from six to ten inches in diame- 
ter; if the tops are straight they can be used for 
joists and rafters. Some lumbermen build their 
camps with the bark on, and they are more pleasing 
in appearance, but if the bark is stripped off, the 
logs will last indefinitely, and rain or moisture will 
not be retained, and insects cannot prey upon them. 
154 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 

The bark will peal most readily in the springtime, 
when the sap is running, but spruce bark can be re- 
moved with an axe at most any time during the 
spring and summer months. The season of the year 
most adapted to building a cabin depends upon the 
locality. In the early winter months there is not the 
difficulty in hauling logs over the hard snow as will 
be found later, when the snow begins to melt. Dur- 
ing the winter months the bark clings tightly to the 
trees, which keeps them in a better condition. If a 
chain is fastened to the end of a log which is to be 
drawn over the ground the bark will be completely 
torn off, so it is better to haul the logs on skids. Cut 
your logs at least two feet longer than the length or 
width of the building, and they can be trimmed down 
afterwards. When the logs have been hauled they 
should be examined carefully and sized up, using the 
largest and strongest for the sills or first tier. The 
upper sides of these should be flattened to a straight 
line. Use great care in fitting the sills to the end 
posts so that the flat surfaces of the logs will be 
level with each other. The other logs for the sides 
and ends of the camp must be flat on both the 
top and bottom. Take one log at a time and 
place it on the logs already in position. The lock- 
155 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

joints, or corners, are made with an axe. Cut them 
deep enough for the flat surfaces to come together 
when in position. In making these joints the log 
on the underside is cut V shape, or left round, and 
the one placed on top in a reverse V, or hollow shape 
(Fig. 1). It may take a number of trials to get a 
perfect fitting joint. Log cabins in Switzerland are 
made with hewn square or rectangular logs notched 
at the corners (Fig. 2). As soon as the first tier is 
laid cut out the notches and continue laying the logs, 
alternating the butts and tops, giving the wall a uni- 
form appearance. When you have reached the 
height of the windows and doors saw out the top logs 
of these spaces and lay the following tier, then finish 
the openings by cutting out the logs below the one 
already sawed out. This may be done by two men 
using a cross-cut saw. 

The doors and window frames should be put in 
place and nailed tight, securing the loose ends of the 
logs (Fig. "). The joists, or sleepers, can be hewn 
with a broad axe. They must be fastened into the' 
bearing timbers and placed so they will have the- 
shortest span. Those supporting the first floor may 
be left rough, but those in the ceiling should be 
peeled. The joists should be straight trees, about six 
156 




Taking Turns at the Hammer. Page 117. 




Forging A Drill In Our Mining Camp. Page 117. 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 

inches in diameter on a twelve feet span, and eight 
inches for a sixteen feet span. Flatten the top side 
for the flooring to rest on ; make with a crown in the 
centre to allow for the other spans, which will sag 
with the weight of the floor. The joists should be 
spaced about three feet apart and framed into the 
side logs and pinned or spiked, to hold them fast 
and keep the building from spreading. 

For openings in the floor for stairs, chimney or 
trap-door, a heavy cross piece must be secured 
by spikes to the joist on either side. I think it is 
always advisable to leave a little space between wood- 
work and chimneys on account of fires; never rest 
timbers on a chimney, as they are liable to become 
-charred and catch fire. 

Shingfle Roofs* 

The incline of a roof should be governed some by 
the nature of its covering. The steep roofyrhas the 
best qualities, as it will shed water, and wind and 
snow will not blow under the shingles, but this is the 
most expensive roof, because the timbers required are 
longer and larger. All rafters must be flat, like a 
joist, and bevel at the top, to conform to the pitch 
157 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

of the roof. Place a ridge pole between the rafters 
at the top. These rafters should be about three feet 
apart, nailed at the top and spiked at the bottom. 
For a shingle roof, the boards may be one by five 
inch strips. A roof may be made of cedar trees 
split into rails and overlapped, but they are far from 
air tight or rain proof, as the writer discovered in 
one of the Megantic Club camps. The rails or 
shingles should project over the gable ends as far as 
you wish. A shingle is about four inches wide and 
sixteen inches long. They are made of cedar or 
spruce, and are sold in any quantity. The first 
course of shingles is laid double, so as not to be 
broken off by ice or snow. At the peak a ridge board 
should be placed, to cover the top ends. A good 
shingle roof will last a number of years. The writer 
was at Camp Wild Wood, Lake Mooselookmeguntic, 
when it was being shingled, and when there about 
eight years after the roof was found to be in nearly 
as goo4 a condition as when made. 

Bark Roofs. 

Bark can be peeled off a tree by cutting two circles 
completely around, from four to six feet apart, and 
connecting them by one vertical cut. Starting from 
158 



HOW TO BUILD A LOO CABIN. 

this cut, pry away on both sides with an axe, a little 
at a time, until the whole bark comes off. After the 
bark is peeled, lay on the ground to dry for a few 
days, after which it may be flattened out by placing 
heavy stones on it; then lay on the roof in strips, 
with an overlap of about six inches on each piece. 
Bark roofs do not last much longer than a couple 
of years, but a great many Maine camps have them, 
as they are very easy to construct. 

Floors and Inside Partitions. 

When the roof is complete, the subject of floors 
comes next. Spruce will be the best for this, of 
about one inch thickness, matched and planed 
smooth. Get good boards and clear from knots. Place 
the floors on both sides of the rafters, to make a good 
coiling. If a good job is wanted for inside parti- 
tions have the boards planed smooth on both sides. 
A cleat of one inch square should be nailed to the 
ceiling and also to the floor boards at the bottom. 
The matched boards are then cut the right length 
and placed in position, driving them tightly together, 
without nailing. Place on the other side of the wall 
another cleat, and the partition is complete. If the 
boards are seasoned well they will not shrink. 
159 



CAMP FIBE8 IN THE WILDERNESS. 
Chimneys* 

If the cabin is to have a chimney, make a good 
stone foundation, or one of brick, on the solid 
ground, and have it extend at least a couple of feet 
below the surface. The stones can be cemented with 
mortar, if desired. The chimney should be lined 
with cemented stones. 

The writer examined the chimney in one of Ed. 
Grant's camps, at Beaver Pond, Me., and found it 
made entirely of peeled logs. This chimney is ex- 
ceptionally large, but it is an exceedingly dangerous 
one. The fireplace opening should be about three 
feet high and four feet wide, with a deep throat. 
Build a ledge of stone above the opening, to use as 
a shelf. Have the smoke flues at least 12x12 in size. 
Fire brick is the best to build flues with, and at the 
top, on the roof, lay a large piece of tin, covering the 
shingles for about a foot around the chimney. The 
best draft can be obtained by extending the chimney 
a foot or two above the ridge pole of the building, 
but when the roof is steep and the chimney is at the 
eaves, its top may be below the ridge pole, if it is 
capped over with a T shaped funnel. If the chimney 
is to consist of a sheet-iron smokestack, let it extend 
160 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 

up through the roof without an elbow. You can 
build a good fire crane by using a stiff iron bar 
braced to an upright piece at right angles. The 
vertical bar should have pins to fit into sockets on 
the top and bottom of the upright, making a hinge. 
The sockets can be made into the fireplace by the 
mason. The swinging arm should have hooks on 
which to hang kettles. 

Windows and Doors. 

The doors and window frames are usually made of 
boards one inch thick, planed on one side only. 

The window sills should pitch downward, and 
extending over the log beneath, so that rain will 
not run inside the building. The windows may 
be made in a variety of ways. They can slide side- 
ways, up or down, or swing in or out. They can be 
bought at the factories, ready for shipment, and are 
packed so well there is little danger of breaking in 
transportation. 

By all means use fly screens, and have them large 

enough to fill the openings, for you will wish you 

had never seen the Maine woods if a lot of black flies 

and mosquitoes get inside your camp. It is very de- 

161 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS. 

sirable to have swinging shutters, which should just 
fit the window frames. Make them of matched 
boards with cross pieces nailed to the inside, using 
large iron hinges. These shutters should be fastened 
tight when you leave your camp at the end of the 
season. Make your doors of matched boards with 
wide battens at the top, bottom and middle; nail or 
screw all together; use wrought iron hinges. The 
fastening may be made of wood, like an ordinary iron 
latch, and the bar should be about two inches wide, 
one inch thick and twelve inches long. Fasten the 
pivot end with a large nail or bolt. The guard should 
be strong, and the slot long enough for the bar to 
lock. The latch is lifted from the outside by a 
leather string, fastened to the end of the bar and 
passing through a hole in the door above the latch. 
Tie a knot on the outside of the string. 



Caulkingf* 

To get a storm-proof cabin the logs must be 
caulked on the outside and inside with oakum or 
moss, forced between the logs with a wooden wedge 
struck with a mallet. 

162 



HOW TO BUILD A LOG CABIN. 
Furnishings* 

A window seat may be made by building a frame 
of sticks supported by brackets, the seat being made 
of small sticks, one inch in diameter, laid close to- 
gether. They can be covered with as many cushions 
as one desires. 

The question of bunks is quite important. I have 
slept on all kinds of beds when camping out, but the 
hardest one I ever saw was at Pine Point Camp, 
Mooselookmeguntic Lake. It was made entirely of 
small bean poles, arranged side by side, and whoever 
made it forgot to chop off the knots and bunches on 
the poles. We had no fir boughs handy, so we laid 
down on the bare poles. One night was enough for 
all of us. The best bed is made by laying fir boughs, 
eight or ten feet deep, on a frame of poles nailed 
close together, about a foot above the floor. These 
boughs should be placed with the under side up and 
the twig part facing towards the head of the bed. 

A stool can be made by getting a log about a foot 
in diameter and sawing from the end of it a block 
about three inches thick. In this block bore three 
holes about two inches in diameter and drive in pegs, 
making the stool any desired height. 
163 



CAMP FIRES IN THE WILDERNESS, 

A table is made by driving four corner posts firmly 
in the ground and nailing cross pieces on top, cover- 
ing them with any loose boards there may be Ipng 
around camp. 

Make a small pantry by fastening a packing box 
on the wall, with a cover swung on leather hinges. 
Put in several shelves to suit the convenience. These 
shelves will be a good place for knives, forks, dishes, 
etc. One can use his own judgment in putting the 
finishing touches to a camp. Many things can be 
thought of and devised for one's comfort and pleas- 
use. Elegance and style are not necessary in the 
woods, and if one has a substantial, well-built camp, 
with some of the comforts of home, he should be 
able to spend many pleasant hours in the free and 
happy life of the woods. 



164 



3 47 7 



